10/27 (四)
經過好幾周的策劃研究帶著俺們的計劃上路了。這次的線路最後定下來是私德各二嫫,赫爾辛堡,赫爾辛格,哥本哈根,漢堡,柏林/波茨坦。機票是用的里程定的,只要繳稅總共350多。前五天的酒店都是用酒店的積分換的,免費。所以這次出行的費用還是可以接受的,呵呵。。。
今天早上還上了班,中午把孩紙從學校里接回來直接就去了機場。第一站老山雞,在阿諾德老鄉的餐廳里吃了個皮薩喝了個酒吃了個皮薩,啤酒近十塊一瓶12oz。消費不起啊!正點老山雞去倫敦,然後接轉SAS接著飛斯德歌爾摩。一路順利,到達斯德歌時已經是當地時間28號下午五點多了。
俺們選擇坐flygbusarna大巴進城,網購99瑞典克朗sek一張票,上車購票要119sek。斯德哥arlanda機場有免費wifi,車票用手機就搞定了。車程四十多分鐘,也有免費wifi,不過很慢,發幾條文字信息還行。斯德歌的機場略顯老舊,這大概是搞社會主義的結果。大巴的終點是中央車站,火車汽車站都在那兒。先取了一千瑞典克朗現款,atm卡很好用,匯率也很好,大約1美元=8.9瑞典克朗。這是俺們頭一次來歐洲趕上強勢美元。然後俺們在subway賽百味隨便吃了點東西算是晚飯了,花費114sek。這邊貌似賽百味,麥當勞,漢堡王都很流行。然後孩紙鬧著要上廁所,這才給了俺們第一手上廁所收費的信息,原來歐洲的統一價格貌似是0.80歐,瑞典這邊要十克朗,狗日的漲價兒了!接著到隔壁的火車站去買後天夜裡去赫爾辛堡的卧鋪,商量了半天買了一等票,俺們自己一個包廂上下兩個卧鋪,帶衛生間淋浴,小孩沒床也不收錢,共計2246sek。
這個事兒辦完了俺們就溜達著去酒店了,地圖上顯示只有1.7公里。手機導航著還讓俺婆娘detour(繞道)了一下,不過到了酒店人家給俺們升級了,立馬氣兒就消了。房間的窗戶對著老城gamla stan,還能看見市政廳大樓。趕緊睡覺!
10/29 (六)
早上起來看見日出,喜出望外,俺們的運氣奏是好。這陣子斯德歌的天氣一直是陰雨。特地給俺們放兩天晴。太棒了。雖然昨天到得晚,俺們還是很早就醒了,時差在作怪。今天的計劃是市政廳和老城。結果俺們超額完成任務,明天就輕鬆了。對斯德哥的第一印象是普通的美膩歐洲老城,比起去過的其他地方沒有什麼特別的姿色。人比較友好,熱心助人,普遍都會說英語。貌似市內也禁煙了,因為門口儘是站著抽煙的,讓人有些哭笑不得。
窗口看出去,左邊第一個是市政廳,第二個是騎士教堂(皇家墓地),靠右手邊就是老城gamla stan。
天慢慢開始亮了,東方開始泛紅
然後火車頻率就開始頻繁了
前面的尖頂是老城的德國教堂,後面那個綠不啦嘰的是斯德歌大教堂,在皇宮旁邊
早飯也是酒店請,免費,填飽了肚子俺們仨就雄赳赳氣昂昂地出門兒了。雖然是個艷陽天,溫度還是比較冷,四十華氏度的樣子,加上有點小風,俺們還是把手套帽子都戴上了。
希爾頓slussen就在老城對面的高坡上,走過去很近,俺們的打算是去趕11點的市政廳參觀(必須跟市政廳的導遊,有不同語言的),這樣俺們就還有些時間在老城轉一圈。出來的早,今天又是周六,所以老城裡見不著幾個人影,太好了。
gamla stan島是個中世紀風格的小鎮,俺們左兜右轉了半天,咋看這地兒咋像俺們兩年前去的布拉格和克拉科夫。路燈和門牌字體都極其相似。不過瑞典這邊好些人都是不同年代從德國過來的,德國又跟波蘭捷克那麼打打殺殺地親如一家,所以建築裝飾類似又似乎不辣么出乎意料了。
百度百科:老城(Gamla Stan),1980年前官方名稱為「橋間之城」(Staden mellan broarna),是瑞典斯德哥爾摩的一個古老城鎮。老城主要包括Stadsholmen島的地區;官方區劃雖然把Riddarholmen、Helgeandsholmen和Strömsborg都划入老城區,但一般人所指的老城都不包括這三個地區。
小鎮子的確很美,可是再美的東西看多了也會麻木。感覺歐洲隔三年來一回比較合適。前年歐洲之行的印象還木有怎麼淡化去。
美人魚夫婦?
俺喜歡看這種小店的門臉,精緻小巧,不過從未進過任何店去買東西。
鎮子中心廣場,諾貝爾博物館就在左手邊,還沒開門兒,本想進去看看的,結果沒開門。等俺們兜一圈回頭再路過這裡又沒了興趣。俺們本來就對進博物館不是那麼熱心,屬於比較膚淺的哪一類。
俺走到哪兒都喜歡拍井蓋兒,歐洲的井蓋兒比較藝術,很有滄桑美
小咖啡店,時光在這兒像是被鎖住了,可惜俺倆都不喝咖啡
早點店?
諾貝爾博物館正臉兒
紋身店
騎士教堂,原來周邊都是僧院,這個教堂的特別之處是很多皇家人物的墓安在裡面。等俺們從市政廳回來時在外面看了一圈,在門口伸了個頭看了看,沒見啥稀奇物件兒,就沒買票進去。後面這個「就沒買票進去」出現的頻率比較高,呵呵。。。
遠望市政廳,此地是斯德哥市議會所在地,一樓的藍廳是諾貝爾獎的宴會廳,二樓金廳是舞會廳。具體頒獎不在這裡。
上了橋了,看看對岸
步行橋是單獨分開的,主橋走騎車火車
路標,市政廳city hall 左轉
沒幾步路就到了,斯德哥主要景點都離得不遠,基本都可以步行
這個市政廳建築還是挺有特色的,建於1911年,用時12年。聽導遊的口氣他們還是很自豪的。
市政廳門票80sek/人,俺們點兒趕得不錯,沒等多長時間就在導遊的帶領下進來了。俺們跟的是英語導遊,斯德哥這邊貌似小夥伴兒們英語說的都不錯,隨便抓個人都能說上幾句,而且不少人說的很利索。
百度百科:斯德哥爾摩市政廳建於1911年,歷時12年才完成,是瑞典建築中最重要的作品。建築兩邊臨水,一座巍然矗立著的塔樓,與沿水面展開的裙房形成強烈的對比,加之裝飾性很強的縱向長條窗,整個建築猶如一艘航行中的大船,宏偉壯麗。
這就是所謂的藍廳,諾貝爾宴會廳,說是辣么多人,每個人只有60厘米的桌邊長度,主桌稍微多點兒75厘米。誰也沒鬧明白這廳為啥叫個藍廳。一說是原來設計師管這個叫藍廳打算貼滿藍瓷磚的,看見紅磚在陽光下的顏色決定不貼藍瓷磚了,但是名字卻沿用了。大廳設計成這樣是因為冬天比較長,所以故意把室內搞得跟室外似的,而且是義大利風格。
樓上的展品,不同時期的諾獎紀念章(幣)。
二樓議會廳,現在還是議會開會的地方,樓上的座位是給市民和記者旁聽用的,底下是政客們互噴的地方
這個廳的頂很有特色
旁邊通往金廳的這個屋子的頂很精緻,四壁是珍貴的法國的掛毯
法國掛毯
這是他們的個神馬王紙才高八斗,自告奮勇的來做壁畫,用的是濕石膏作畫法,容不得閃失,弄錯了就得鏟掉重來
這些壁畫就在長廊左邊柱子後面
金廳的確晶壁輝煌,牆上又各種人物和場景,主要內容在對面牆上,畫的是馬爾默湖的女神,置身於世界的中心
左邊是西方世界,美國法國等,右邊是東方,印度土耳其之類的,一看就是不拿天朝當個事兒啊!俺問導遊他們有木有後悔把和平獎發給傲八馬,她說和平獎不歸他們發,由挪威發。說原來挪威瑞典是一個國家也不知為啥就這麼掰成兩個國家了。
出來後來到河邊看看
這個房頂上還有個穆斯林的彎月,不知是何寓意
市議會的庭院
看完了市議再折回老城ganmla stan
又路過騎士教堂
十七世紀的教堂和僧院模型圖
老爺子餓了,伸頭看看人家開沒開
小鋪子招牌,斯德哥不便宜,快餐都要個十幾塊美元,普通啤酒十多美元一瓶/310毫升。TA上的同學們介紹說老城區餐飲是最貴的,過了橋到南邊的生活區會便宜很多,可,可,可俺們是來玩兒的啊,去生活區做啥?又腫么會有辣么多的時間去覓食兒呢?真是頭疼的事兒!
回到老城這邊,老遠就聽皇宮這邊熱鬧非凡,掐指一算,這該是換崗么?
看完了換崗接著溜達,這個換崗比起英國的差遠了,不過比起捷克希臘啥的又排場不少
霸氣防盜窗
又來到了諾貝爾博物館,這次開放了,不過俺們已經沒興趣了
中心廣場
這個門兒和俺們在克拉科夫看的神似,門牌號的字體雷同
又看見了不少小店面
灰常喜歡這種燈盒子加門牌號
又走到了河邊,回看皇宮,俺們對皇宮興趣也不大,視頻上看了,裡面的東西都是俺家沒有的。
看見了遊船,孩紙吵吵著要坐,一問120sek/人(正常價180sek, 淡季優惠),坐吧!正好也走累了。結果這一小時遊船還不錯,兜著周邊的三個島從水上把主要景點瀏覽了一下。
從水上看街景
這是在另一個島上的瑞典自然博物館,明天過來,後來俺們自然也沒進去。
瓦薩沉船博物館,在自然博物館的後面
還有個大遊樂場,冬天停業
這個長頸鹿不錯
這是去芬蘭和東歐那邊的遊船,下次可以考慮坐個這個
這個是希爾頓酒店附近的一個巨貴的餐館,特色是有個天橋可以遠眺,俺們自然是木有那份銀子上去。
遊船下來后,小寶時差強力來襲,辛虧俺們帶了小推車和罩子,她得以舒舒服服暖暖和和的在車上睡過去了。俺們到了老城北邊的購物街兜了一圈,一無所獲,這邊也不值得來
斯德哥的計程車是司機可以隨便定價的,前提是要把價錢用個統一的黃牌子明確的貼出來。俺們看見的價格有380多sek的也有600多的,一不小心就會上當。據說380多是正常價格。
在老城的一家比薩克巴布小店裡吃了飯,俺的克巴布119sek,婆姨的肉卷95sek,可樂60sek,共計274sek,味道不錯,價格不便宜。斯德哥不是個便宜地界兒!普通啤酒基本十美元一瓶。完事兒了俺們就回酒店了,樓上的行政樓層有免費的小吃和酒水,那啥,多謝了!
酒店的床鋪的很有特色,兩床小被子,分開鋪的,各睡各的?第一天圓滿結束,而且進度提前了,除了沒見著啥新鮮玩意兒,大家都很嗨皮。
armed with the insights I got from this forum and other websites we worked out a tentative plan for our two days in Stockholm.
10/28 fri -
we flew from boi - lax - lhr, then landed at arlanda airport a bit after 5pm, smooth sailing all the way. free wifi at the airport, bought our flygbussarna tickets for 99 sek each using my smart phone, my usa visa card worked fine. if you buy the ticket on bus it would cost 109 sek instead. the bus took off not long after we boarded. free wifi available on board, but only good fro sending short text messages. it took about 40 minutes to arrive at the central terminal.
after having a quick sandwich at the subway in the central terminal we went to buy our train tickets for Stockholm to Helsingborg at the train station next door. same price as what was indicated on sj website. 2246 sek total for a private compartment from Stockholm to hasselholm then communter train to Helsingborg, for two bunker beds, no charge for our 5 yearold. the exchange rate reflected in my credit card message was about 1 usd = 8.95 sek. we were told by the sj staff that their website doesn't take usa issued credit cards. however, you can always call in and book tickets.
afterwards we took a walk towards our hotel on the other side of the bay, Hilton slussen, the price was right, on points! the temperature wasn't very chilly, similar to ours at home. but it was a bit windy, which made it a bit hard on the face. all in all, the arrival experience was very nice. we were given a room with the view to gamla stan and the city hall, great start!
10/29 sat -
after a good night sleep, although it was barely four hours for me, the sun came out at around 7:30am. beautiful view out of our window towards gamla stan, the city hall and the bridges with morning train traffic picking up the speed. what a beautiful start of the day! breakfast on the house, with decent varieties. today's plan: the city hall and gamla stan.
had a brief walk through gamla stan on our way to the city hall. for a strange reason we had a strong sense that everything looked very familiar, in the end we decided that gamla stan looks very much like the old streets in prague and crakow, the décor of small shops, light fixings, street numbers, etc. can anyone offer an explanation?
the city hall was just a short walk away. the tour was very well organized. we timed ourselves to arrive for the 11am tour. so all worked out fine. the tour is very interesting. the golden hall was very impressive. the building is interesting to us because of its nobel prize association. admission was 80 sek pp.
after we were done with the city hall, we walked back to gamla stan, passing by riddarholmskyrkan church. didn't bother to go in, had a look outside and snapped a few pictures. by the time we arrived near the royal palace we saw the change of guard in progress, so we went that direction and took a look, nothing special. wondered around a bit more and ended up at the boat tour place. it was about time for the next departure so we took it, 120 sek pp (regular price 180 sek pp). the boat tour went around the islands and gave us an idea about where everything is, well worth the money.
after the boat tour, it was now at 4pm, the little one couldn't resist her jet lag and fell asleep. thank goodness that we brought the stroller along so that daddy didn't have to carry her all the way back to hotel and we were still able to keep on with our browsing. we stopped at a kebab place in gamla stan to have lunch, it was good, the kebab plate 119 sek, donner wrap sandwich 95 sek, coke 60 sek, total 274 sek. pretty expensive compareing to what we can get at home. afterwards. on our way back to hotel we stopped by at a seven-eleven and picked up two 1.5 liter bottled water 56 sek, a carton of juice 28 sek.
didn't go out for dinner, went up to hotel lounge and got some drinks and small eats, on the house because we got upgraded. not too bad.
our first impression of Stockholm is that people were friendly and helpful. the city is nice and beautiful, just like many other old European cities we have been to, but she lacks features that stands herself out in the crowds. one thing we really didn't like is that it seems people smoke everywhere. I guess it is banned to smoke inside because I saw a lot of people smoke around entrances.