埃及 13。12/16/15 盧克索 帝王谷 哈齊普蘇特廟 哈布廟

2015/12/16 （二）上午中午 盧克索 帝王谷 哈齊普蘇特廟 哈布廟
　　因為這幾天都是早睡早起，俺們的時差還沒有完全調整好。其實這樣也好，每天早早的就出發，不用等到晚一些和為數不多的旅遊團照面，拍照效果會好很多。六點半俺們就吃完了早飯，早七點司機就來接俺們了。今天上午的活動都在河對岸，俺們住在盧克索  市內，東岸。帝王谷，哈奇普蘇特廟和哈布廟都在西岸。昨天看了卡納克  廟，埃及  乃至世界最大的古廟，不知今天這兩個廟會不會很讓人失望。盧克索  附近的各個法老的廟數不勝數，要想都看那可是得多呆些日子。俺們屬於走馬觀花族的，所以根據旅遊介紹選幾個重點地看看。

　　第一站是帝王谷，valley of the kings。等到新王國時期，法老們已經不玩兒金字塔了。因為金字塔目標太大，所有發現的金字塔都被盜墓人洗劫一空，木乃伊更是被掏空了卷在紗布裡面的值錢小物件隨便丟棄。這跟法老們想升天當神仙的想法頗有距離。新王國的首都也從開羅  附近的孟菲斯  遷到了底比斯thebes，也就是現在的盧克索  luxor。然後從公元前十六世紀至前十一世紀大約500年間，法老們就在尼羅河西岸的一個山谷里開始鑿岩穴作為他們的墓。其間一直有個由各種工匠畫匠組成的墓穴建築施工隊駐紮在山谷附近，他們居住地的遺址也被考古了。直到法老王朝破落前，帝王谷都專門有個機構負責安保和維護。即使這樣盜墓的現象還是很嚴重的，人們猜測盜墓人如果不是建築隊的人，起碼也是有建築隊的人指點。目前在帝王谷里找到的63個墓穴 - 有法老的，也有政要的 - 都不同程度的被盜了墓，包括人們津津樂道的土唐卡門墓！現在對遊人開放的墓穴只是63個裡面很少的一部分，很多墓在發掘之前就遭到了洪水的侵蝕，結構不穩定，出於安全原因無法對遊人開放。每張門票100埃鎊，允許看三個墓，想多看還得再買票。圖唐卡門的墓是單賣票的，100埃鎊。其實小圖同學的墓不值得看，很小，裡面又木有什麼東西，徒有虛名，裡面的好東西都被搬到開羅  的埃及  博物館里了，只有小圖同學的木乃伊還在裡面。

　　扯了這麼一大篇帝王谷只有一張禿山的照片，整個帝王谷墓里墓外禁止拍照。俺還和幾個本地的導遊為此事口角了一番。


旅店房間能看見尼羅河，尼羅河的早晨

 
帝王谷離盧克索  市內不遠，過橋就是。 kfc外賣。麥當勞kfc賣的價格在此地應該算是高價食品了。

 
 孩紙們上學路上 

 
 這就到了西岸這邊，林蔭小道加上一點小霧氣看著很仙境的趕腳！ 

 
 從西岸看尼羅河 

 
 　這就到了帝王谷了，唯一的一張相機照片。等俺再去搜搜婆娘的手機，她用手機偷拍了幾張。俺拍的室外照片被人家逮到刪除了。俺也懶得費勁去復原。據TA上同學們說的意思是帝王谷的拍照權賣個一家什麼公司了，所有整個帝王谷，墓穴內，室外，一律禁止拍照。俺和領導抱怨這個規定真的很司徒彼得，結果讓個本地導遊聽見了，他的民族自尊心受到了極大地侮辱，跑去和管理人員投訴了，人家一直追著俺們到了最後一個有上百級台階的墓穴的門口，他們在下面喊，俺們裝聾作啞，後來他們氣喘吁吁地上來了，俺們好開森。。。呵呵。幸虧他們只查了俺的手機，裡面只有幾張室外的。婆娘的手機里真的有墓穴裡面的照片，俺在那兒假裝刺兒頭吵吵嚷嚷的所以就忘了婆娘那個手機。這都是何必呢！
 

 
在帝王谷跟導遊們吵完了架，挺滑稽的，結束了帝王谷的參觀。有些墓穴規模還是相當大的，裡面也是牆上頂上滿是浮雕壁畫，金碧輝煌的，很氣派。可又有什麼用呢？所有的法老墓包括他們的木乃伊都被洗劫一空。法老時代沒落之前，帝王谷管委會其實還是挺負責任的，他們把一些重要人物的木乃伊全部集中到了一個很難發現的偏僻墓穴里，結果還是讓想掏財寶賣給外國人的村民們發現了。法老的木乃伊們現今都在老幹部活動中心 -埃及  博物館 - 頤養天年！呵呵。。。



　　下一站，哈奇普蘇特（哈氏）紀念廟。哈氏的紀念廟是供太陽神阿蒙-瑞的。建築風格上獨樹一幟，跟其他法老的廟完全兩樣。此地也是1997年極端分子槍殺62個遊客的地點。哈氏是個「女流之輩」，公元前1506（這年代貌似都是大約的，各處寫的經常不一樣）年開始掌勺當法老。按規矩女人是當不了法老的，可是事在人為，哈氏在她一手提拔的大內總管三納穆特的輔佐下成就了大業，謠傳他倆還有不正當男女關係。這可不是俺編的，別罵俺低俗。呵呵。。。

　　哈氏是圖特摩斯一世（圖一）的正室閨女，圖一由他的兒子圖二繼位，圖二是妃子所生，所以血統不正牌兒，咋辦聶，他就娶了她的同父異母的妹妹哈氏為妻以壯「軍威」。結果圖二這小身體兒不咋地，四十啷噹歲兒就撒手走咧！哈氏根兒正苗紅受的是皇家教育，一看說這事兒俺玩兒的轉，俺來！於是經過一通包裝推廣隆重登場，她的雕像啥的都是男裝，還帶著假山羊鬍子-法老的招牌。哈氏的才能坊間是承認的，南征北戰，擴大版圖，搶鄰國點兒地盤兒她都干過。建這個廟也是為了宣傳她的豐功偉績。可是呢，她這麼一弄就「一不小心」得罪了一個人：圖三！圖三是圖二和妃子所生，是哈氏的非親生子。哈氏管著事兒這圖三就木法當法老，他只是三軍統帥，整天在外面東征西伐，到了哈氏歸西圖三正式當上法老時，埃及  的版圖是有史第一！圖三的報復手段是把哈氏的雕像，浮雕里哈氏像啥的能砸得都砸了！結果就是：這個廟名氣大故事多，但是裡面可看的東西並不多。

全景，坐落在山谷里。

 
 今天到處都是學生，這幾個熊孩紙非得讓俺給他們來一張。背景里俺的兩個隊員又被「圍攻」。 

 
 哈氏的雕像一大排，這都是後來拼裝恢復的，全給圖三砸了 

 
 女學生 

維基百科：荷魯斯（Horus，也作Heru-sa-Aset荷魯—沙—阿賽特、Hrw、Hr以及Hor-Hekenu）是古代埃及神話  中法老  的守護神，是王權的象徵。他的形象是一位隼  頭人身的神祇。
像許多其他神祇一樣，荷魯斯的性質，以及關於他的故事和傳說，一直在隨著歷史的發展而不斷變化。可以把荷魯斯看作是由許多其他與皇權，天空等有關的神祇組成的合併體。而這些神祇大多是太陽神  。
Heru-ur（也稱作Harmerti哈默迪）是荷魯斯最早的一個版本，他是一位隼  形的造物神。他的眼睛是太陽  和月亮  。當新月  出現時，他就成了一個瞎子，稱作Mekhenty-er-irty（意思是「無目者」）；而當他的視力恢復時，他又被稱作Khenty-irty（意思是「有目者」）。眼盲時的荷魯斯是非常危險的，他有時會將朋友誤認為敵人併發起攻擊。他是蓋布  與努特  的孫子，是萊托波里斯  （Letopolis）的守護神。
 
葫蘆絲神，就是個神馬鷹

 
 原雕像碎塊加水泥拼接的結果，修復的還不錯。雙手交叉胸前是法老雕像的標準動作，木乃伊也是這樣的。法老媳婦兒只能單手放胸前。 

 
入口，門上寫了一大堆字。要是能看懂古埃及  的文字應該很有意思。

 這座廟三面環山，估計古埃及人也講究風水 

 
這個女法老故事一大堆，有興趣自學吧。俺們兜一圈就出來了。

 
 廟的底層迴廊里的浮雕，還是彩色的，曬不著太陽的原因 

神奇的很 

 
這幅里的哈氏像就被鑿的稀巴爛

 完了事兒了小寶要上廁所，哪兒給她找去，問一個工作人員，人家就熱情地帶著去了，當然小費得給，要不辜負了人家的熱情。

 
旁邊山上還有其他考古工地，不開放

 
哈氏廟參觀完了俺們就直奔哈布廟。全名麥迪奈特-哈布廟，此廟是拉美西斯三世（拉三，第十八朝代，公元前1184-1153）的皇宮和紀念廟。位於麥迪納特-哈布，因此得名，在盧克索  尼羅河西岸。哈布廟是新王國時期的一個重要建築。除去其規模和建築風格的重要性它的浮雕壁畫還是了解當時埃及  人擊敗「海洋人」的重要資料。該廟寬210米，長300米，共有7000平方米的浮雕牆面，可謂沒有閑著的牆面！公元一世紀至幾世紀此地是個科普特人的城市，該廟也被用作科普特人的教堂，廟內的浮雕和雕像遭到了不同程度的毀壞。總體結構和浮雕保存的還算完整，但是有些雕像和石柱  被毀的很厲害。儘管這是俺們看得第三座廟，已經有些審美疲勞，這座廟還是有其特色，很值得一看的。


這樣的門樓子據說不是埃及  風格的，應該是拉三兒征戰敘利亞  是從哪兒的城堡風格得到的啟發。

 
在這裡，俺的兩個隊員受到了女同學們的圍攻合影各種組合，一時脫不開身，穿藍衣服的老師正試圖驅散「暴徒」們。

 
 入口 

 
法老朝代晚期的黑石頭雕像，這個也應該是太陽神啥的，頭頂上頂個太陽

 
牆上是拉三和阿蒙神的浮雕。上半部分的浮雕人像已經被卡普特人鑿掉了。後來看的哈索爾廟也是這樣鑿的。

 
門樓子的房頂雕著很多雄鷹展翅一樣的圖案，應該是葫蘆絲（horus）- 天空神，戰神，獵神。

 
又是拉三兒和阿蒙神。此廟裡面的文字刻的非常深，據說是為了避免後來的法老接著在上面改刻別的字

 
 又遭遇女學生圍攻，俺們哪個司機也解釋不清楚今天是個啥日子，貌似學生都被組織出來參觀了 

 
牆上刻著拉三兒驍勇善戰，英勇殺敵。手上提溜著一大堆敵人。高帽子的是阿蒙神。這個女同學很有鏡頭感，表情很好。

 
第二道門樓子兩邊都是拉三兒英勇殺敵的巨幅宣傳畫

 邊上的小廟

 
回望第一道門樓子，敘利亞  城堡風格。貌似古時候那一片總是殺來殺去的。

 
中間是拉三兒，右邊是葫蘆絲和阿蒙神，左邊是澳西里斯神，貌似是先刻錯位置了。就這質量也來矇事兒！

 
第二道門樓子的天花頂，又是葫蘆絲神雄鷹展翅

 
 門后的庭院里有很多柱子，和浮雕，都是與神和拉三的故事有關的。柱子上牆上全部刻滿了，找不著空地兒。俺家那兩個隊員不停地遭到學生們的圍攻有時多達20多人把她倆圍在中間，工作人員覺得這樣對待國際友人不太好，於是乎照片中這兩個拿衝鋒槍的黑衣男就從頭至尾的幫俺們擋著學生，直到學生全部離開他們才走。他們應該是部隊上的，因為給他們小費他們說不能收，問有沒有筆，給了他們圓珠筆很高興。 

 
這面牆上刻的全是字

 
拉二在戰車上，注意馬的腿很多，有的猜測是形容馬跑得快，有的則猜測是形容馬很多。。。呵呵。。。

 
立柱上的拉三雕像全部被砸壞了

 
第三道門兒的頂上

 
到處都是學生，一撥一撥的，等他們一走，這地方就寂靜無聲了。

 
第四道門

 
至此學生們開始撤退了，他們一走此地頓時一片寂靜，只剩下俺們仨和另外兩三個外國遊人。這恐怖分子鬧騰得大家日子都不好過啊！

 
最後一個庭院又是一堆倒了的柱子，只剩下最低下一層了

 壁畫都是以法老為中心，法老和各路大神們手拉手，共建美好埃及

 
這些柱子要是不倒應該也是很壯觀地！

 
此地還有方柱子

 學生們都出門了

 
牆上的兩個圓巴巴也不知是誰的名字

 
看夠了，撤！此時院兒里已是空無一人了。趕緊回盧克索  弄點吃的，然後去看盧克索  神廟。

小寶一馬當先，不知小孩子看這東西有沒有意思。反正她也沒有特明顯的不耐煩。

Travel diary day six 12/16

started off early today at 7 am.

first stop, the valley of the kings. our driver told us that no cameras allowed beyond the entrance. so I left my camera in the car, btw, we had a Toyota minivan all to ourselves. apparently smart phones were allowed. in addition to the general admission ticket that was good for three tombs we also bought one for Tutankhamen's for 100 egp each.

we first went to the Tutankhamen's for it was near the entrance. with all the readings we've done we built up our high expectation for this one. however, the tomb failed to impress us. only one small chamber was on display with the mummy and a coffin in it. maybe this has a lot of significance to some people, but in my opinion this was almost 100 good egp wasted. the only thing I got out of it was that I could say I've been down there.

for the three free tombs we visited thutmosis iii/kv34, rameses iv/kv2, and merenptah/kv8, all were very interesting with long tunnels and many chambers and walls full of reliefs. very impressive. again, a little readings about the tombs will enhance the visiting experience several folds.

at the time we were doing our chores hopping around the tombs I came to realize that the no photo policy applied not only to the insides of the tombs but also to the outside of the whole vok grounds. how did I figure this out? several eager tour guides reminded me at different occasions, when I was taking a shot of the info board outside a tomb, when I took a photo in front of a sign post, etc. I finally got the clarification from one guide that the outside ground was indeed a part of the no photo policy.

that that time, I commented that no inside photo was semi-understandable. my argument against that policy is that people were allowed to use a torch light inside the tombs and I saw people touch the reliefs with their bare hands, and in the mean time they forbids taking photos with no flash lights at all???!!!

the no photo policy for the outside ground is totally beyond me. yes, it's their place they can make any rules they want. but I have to call that policy stupid. the two guides nearby just took my soft voiced comment very personally. and I did make it clear to them that I was calling the policy stupid. I guess they were still taking this as an insult. they obviously reported me to tourist police for when I was up at the end of the tuthmossi iii/kv 34, there were someone yelling at me from down below. I just played dumb and kept walking. finally the two guys, one in plain clothes and one with a rifle caught up with me at the entrance with a very serious facial expression.

I told them what was going on and they asked to see my cell phone. thank goodness i didn't take any inside photos. of course they asked me to delete all the shots taken at vok. and that was it. but, but, but what about the ones in my wife's cell phone? they forgot to ask and i didn't tell. that was very very entertaining for a while.

after the vok, we went to the hutcheputsut temple. it was, again, not very impressive due to our high expectations for this temple with all the hypes. it was some kind of school history day of some sort because we saw loads of grade school and junior high kids. my wife and daughter were surrounded several times by these kids asking for photos taking together. sometimes they two were in the middle of 20 kids. we still couldn't figure out why. there were western and Asian tourists around, not much happening to them.

the next stop was hapu temple. this one was actually very impressive, we liked it very much and spent a lot of time there. again, there were loads of kids around. the photo requests for my two girls were overwhelming, it was so bad that one of the police guards had to walk the most part of the temple ground with us to keep the kids away. in the end all kids left and we almost had the whole thing to ourselves. we offered the guard 20 egp for appreciation, he said he could not take it. he then asked for a pen, so we gave one to him. we ran into several people asking for pens for a gift, does anyone know why?

after the hapu temple, we came back to luxor, had lunch at the mcd by luxor temple. we bought our driver a 60 epg lunch and gave him 60 egp for tips, he was happy today. we then let the driver go home and we stayed to tour around at the luxor temple. just like karnak, luxor temple was great, too.

took a horse cart ride back to our hotel for 5 egp negotiaed after we were done at the temple. the horse cart guy was actually very nice. i gave him 10 egp in the end. other than the no photo "conflict" at the vok this was another wonderful day for us!