2013/4/23 烏施維亞 - 火地島國家公園
4/23/2013
昨天一天挺忙叨,今天睡了個懶覺。等俺們把東西收拾停當準備出門時已經快十點半了。坐火地島的小火車是指定沒戲了。人不勤快就誤事啊,就得多花錢啊!
旅館的老闆還不在,俺們只能用僅有的幾個西班牙語跟搞清潔的服務員比劃,意思是叫個出租車,司機必須會一點英文。沒一會兒司機就來了。說是帶俺們去火地島國家公園兜一圈最後把俺們送機場總共要600比索。都到這會兒了你還樣俺腫么跟銀家砍價尼?司機的英文說的還不錯,走你!
要說阿根廷人真的挺樸實,小地方的人很熱情而且樂於助人。布宜諾斯就差多了,大城市嘛!
烏斯懷亞地方其實沒多大。不一會兒就到了國家公園。
牌子上寫著世界盡頭的火車 tren del fin del mundo
這便是那有名的小火車了,可惜早就開走了。這地方本來是流放犯人的,這地方地廣人稀,不怕犯人逃跑。據說跑了的經常過幾天又回來了-無法生存。天天早晨犯人們坐火車去做苦工,晚上再坐回來。現在這個火車已經是純旅遊項目了。
火車站
世界盡頭火車站estacion del fin del mundo
接著摘抄 -
火地島編輯[huǒ dì dǎo]
火地島位於南美洲的最南端,面積約48700平方公里,1881年智利和阿根廷划定邊界,東部屬阿根廷,西部屬智利。阿根廷的火地島區相當於一個省,它的首府烏斯懷亞是個只有1.7萬人口的城市。佔地6.3萬公頃是1960年正式開放的,每到南半球的夏天,從世界各地前來旅遊的人絡繹不絕。
1520年10月,航海家麥哲倫發現了被他命名的麥哲倫海峽時,首先看到的是當地土著居民在島上燃起的堆堆篝火,遂將此島命名為「火地島( Tierra del Fuego)」。
南美洲南端群島。是南美洲最大的島嶼。主島火地島又稱大火地島,隔麥哲倫海峽(最窄處僅3.3公里)同南美大陸相望,面積4.87 萬平方公里。包括附近數百個小島和岩礁在內的群島總面積約了7.3萬平方公里,約 2/3屬智利, 1/3屬阿根廷。
火地島國家公園
阿根廷於1960年在島上建立了國家公園。火地島國家公園是世界最南端的國家公園,是世界最南部的一個自然保護區,雪峰、湖泊、山脈、森林點綴其間,極地風光無限,景色迷人,到處充滿著奇
火地島國家公園
妙色彩。其他看點:烏斯懷亞是火地島地區的首府,也是火地島上位於世界最南端的城市。這裡洋溢著濃濃的奇妙色彩,如今已成了迷人的風景點。烏斯懷亞印第安語,是「觀賞落日的海灣」之意,當日落黃昏時,登上山崗,眺望晚霞中的海灣,水天一色,雲霞似錦,美不勝收。
火地島國家公園的牌子
山裡就是冷,到這會了還有霜,河裡還有冰碴子
小火車用的是窄軌
這便是那世界盡頭的小郵局了。到處都是世界盡頭,俺都樣他整暈了!
貌似這郵局今天不開門。好在俺們不好這一口。沒啥缺憾的。
海灣地圖
瓜拉尼港puerto guarani
白車就是俺們的
司機說對面就是智力了,智利那邊也有個火地島國家公園,這一不小心就不知道是在阿根廷還是智利了。俺到現在也沒仔細好好看地圖。
河瀨還是海瀨啥的放倒好些樹攔河築壩。
俺們雇的出租車,一輛雪佛萊小車。這是到了一個小博物館,有關印第安人的展覽。要說印第安人也是很憋屈的,比俺們中國人還憋屈。
不知是神馬樹,上面有一團一團的東西好像是寄生在上面的。
印第安人的血淚史,先是地方被葡萄牙西班牙的海盜們佔了,打又打不過,東西也給騙走了,人也被殺了不少,然後又扛不住洋人帶來的病毒, 幾百年後在這塊地方几乎絕種!
這個不知是否天鵝,俺跟婆姨吵了半天也沒結果。司機也不清楚這事兒。
司機說對面就是智利。反正轉悠到這會兒是徹底暈菜了。忘了看gps了。
路遇小狐狸,不太像狐狸精。
這個鳥鳥在聚精會神地逮蟲子
水瀨築的樹壩,這東西破壞力真不小,附近很多被他們啃死的樹。
從另一方面說這水瀨很能幹。
這塊兒就是今天公園裡的最後一站了。
這兒也戳著個牌子,阿根廷,火地島國家公園,拉帕塔亞灣
這個公園基本上就是野景。雖然不是一樣的東西,可是在美國這種景色並不缺,類型跟黃石公園差不多。
小寶玩的也很嗨
在這兒又看見了起飛降落帶助跑的鳥鳥了。好像還有個落單的海獅跟這堆鳥混在一起。
臨走時又看見一個小狐狸
問司機本地有沒有中餐館,他說有一個,俺們打算去給孩紙賣點蒸米飯,因為她最近除了白米飯什麼都不吃。到了門口看到人家鐵將軍把門,不知是度假去了還是關門歇菜了。
這樣俺們就提前了一會到機場,隨便買了點吃的喝的墊巴墊巴。去卡拉法泰的航班晚點近一小時。到了卡拉法泰打的去酒店,那個司機問俺們明天要不要包車說是800比索一天。俺說再跟他聯繫。以俺的經驗機場出來的司機基本上都沒啥實話!
到了旅店已經是一片漆黑,旅店的位置在小鎮子的邊邊上,黑咕隆咚的俺們也不敢跑遠。前台說可以讓人送餐俺們就讓人送了個比薩,80比索。味道還真不賴!
前台的小夥子英語不太靈光所以沒打聽出多少信息。聽他的意思基本上是有三個辦法去看冰川:班車120比索一個人小孩不要票,車租車600-800比索,參加旅遊團(已經晚了,俺們趕不上了)。
烏斯維亞機場,很小很溫馨。
day four - ushuaia
we had a late start today due to the long day we had yesterday. also, with a baby there are a lot of chores we have to do before we actually can head out. around 11:30am we were finally ready. by now it seemed everything else but hiring a taxi to do the national park was out of question. we asked our hotel people to call for a taxi driver that could handle some english. five minutes later mario showed up, his english was more than a few words and he was pleasant. we agreed to 600 pesos to cover the national park and take us to the airport when done.
we can argue if i paid too much or not, but i think having a taxi driver that i can talk to with a pleasant personality is all worth it. we had a great a great time at the park, mario made stops here and there and let us take short walks to nice photo spots. we didn't try any trails due to our lack of time. we were taken to the airport at 4pm for our 5:40pm flight. aerolineas argentinas pulled through with another smooth flight to el calafate right on time.
the national park at ushuaia doesn't impress us as much as we thought it would. the sceneries are similar to that of the yellowstone national park, of course, not in any ways identical. it's beautiful all right, but it doesn't give us the extra kicks. i guess it might mean something different to the hikers.
with mario's permission, i post his phone number here just in case someone else needs service like his :
(02901) 1551-6240, email: mariohugo214@hotmail.com
arrived in el calafate around 6pm, think there is a hour difference in time here. took a taxi to my hotel in town for 140 pesos. the hotel is marcopolo suites. it's located at the edge of the town center, a 5-10 minute walk away. after we settled down in the room it was all dark, didn't venture out. ordered a large pizza for delivery for 71 pesos. other than the pizza being luke warm it was actually very tasty.
the front desk clerk was a young kid, his english wasn't very good. but i did manage to get the ideas of bus to the glacier park for 120 pesos pp provided you have to show up at the bus station in town and taxi for the whole tour takes about 600-700 pesos while the taxi driver that took us to hotel offered 800. with all that information we went to sleep to prepare for the big day tomorrow.