2013/4 阿根廷 D2. 布宜諾斯艾利斯：雷科萊塔公墓

4/21/2013 （日）
昨晚睡得不錯。俺們的房間沒有對著街所以很安靜。差不多十點多俺們就出門了。第一件事是要再去換點黑市美元。昨天一頓飯把俺們的比索庫存減去一大半兒！
 

為了慶祝布市建立400周年，1936年由建築師阿爾貝托·普雷比施（Alberto Prebisch）設計，修建了這座方尖碑（Obelisco）。由於起初人們反對這個工程，1939年幾乎被全部拆毀。2014年已成為布市不可替代的標誌性建築。碑高67.5米。七·九大街（Av. 9 de Julio）（1810年7月9日阿根廷宣布獨立）由北向南橫穿城市，寬約140米，據稱是世界上最寬的馬路。 　　

天氣不錯，不冷不熱地。 方尖碑和七·九大街 

上圖樓上的人物便是貝隆夫人。看樣子她是這個國家的傳奇人物。

　　天氣好心情也好，俺們溜達這往弗羅里達街走去。到了方尖碑廣場要過馬路時俺忽然意識到出酒店門口時看見的兩個小年輕還跟在俺們後面。俺跟婆姨說盯著他們點兒。俺背著背包和相機婆姨推著小孩車兩歲的孩紙坐在車上，俺尋思著兩個小玩鬧兒要是鬧事兒還真是不好對付。

　　到了方尖碑下這倆個混混更是跟俺形影不離。這是俺已經基本鬧明白了他們的意圖 - 腳著俺的相機值錢。所以俺特意給他倆拍了照示意他倆俺已經注意他們了。不過這一招對他們完全沒有任何威懾力。

　　等過了馬路，俺跟婆姨說俺們進麥當勞去，量他倆不敢再店裡搶劫。等俺把嬰兒車搬上台階時這倆已經迫不及待的要動手了。俺婆姨說她回頭看他倆時那個黑小子已經伸手要抓俺的相機了。

　　兩個小毛賊

 大興土木

　　在麥當勞喝了杯可樂橙汁神馬的耗了十分鐘，再出來那倆小混混已不見蹤影。可是沒過多久又看見他們了。不過這次是他們被警察逮著了坐在馬路牙子上 - 偷一個背包客的東西。俺當仁不讓的去跟警察叔叔說這倆玩鬧剛才還想搶俺的相機（此時相機已經在俺的背包里躺了半天了）。完了俺們就去找地方換錢去了。昨天換錢的那一家今天鐵將軍把門 - 星期天商店差不多都關門。只有餐館還開門。俺婆姨眼尖說一有個雜貨店開門貌似還是中國人。


　　科隆歌劇院

哥倫布劇院位於布宜諾斯艾利斯市中心，緊鄰七九大街，與城市紀念碑遙遙相對，是一座專門上演歌劇、芭蕾舞劇和交響樂的高水平的劇院，同時也是世界上最著名的劇院之一。阿根廷人聲稱，在世界現有歌劇院中，哥倫布劇院拉美第一，世界第三，僅次於義大利米蘭劇院和法國巴黎劇院。
哥倫布劇院始建於1890年，1908年竣工，工期長達十八年。其間先後更換了三位設計師。1908年5月25日，哥倫布劇院正式啟用，首演劇目為著名歌劇《阿伊達》。
劇院建築沉穩但不失雍容典雅， 融義大利文藝復興時期的從容大度與德國厚重以及法國優雅的建築風格於一體。內部裝修廣泛使用從義大利和西班牙進口的大理石和馬賽克，更顯得富麗堂皇。劇院內壁的浮雕、窗戶玻璃彩繪等美倫美奐，大廳內陳設的雕塑、胸像神態惟妙惟肖，木器、瓷瓶等藝術珍品古色古香，特別是金廳四壁的24K鍍金浮雕更加令人嘆為觀止。
主劇場擁有2500個坐席和1000個立席。觀眾席分為七層：一層池座(29.25米×32.65米)，設632個寬敞舒適的座位；二層至五層均為包廂；六層和七層分別被稱為「樓廳」和「天堂」，均為立席。「天堂」距地面的高度為28米。
劇場天頂懸掛著由600隻燈泡組成的巨大吊燈。吊燈周圍是阿根廷著名藝術家勞爾·索爾迪創作的巨幅環型壁畫。舞台的面積(35.25米×34.50米)大於池座，可以旋轉，便於迅速更換場景。音響設施設計巧妙，即使舞台上不用擴音器，演員的聲音也能清晰均勻地傳播到全場各個角落。

進了店一問，還真是祖國來的，福建人。小夥子和他媳婦兒倆一起打理這個雜貨店。還有個兩歲的孩紙。俺問他們星期天換錢的店不開門咋辦？他說你怎麼換俺說一比八，你要多少，換五百美元，你等著我回家去拿錢。。。看樣子這裡是不大安全，店裡500百美元的錢都沒有。

　　等待期間那個警察跑來找俺說是被偷的背包客不願意去警局做筆錄問俺想不想去，那意思是如果沒人做筆錄他們也沒轍只能把那倆小混混放了。大爺俺是來玩兒的沒興趣參觀警察局。多好的制度啊，多好的人權啊！難怪混混們敢光天化日之下沒有顧忌地搶劫。

　　沒一會兒福建小夥子回來了，俺們做了交易就撤了。放了一部分現金匯酒店俺們就出來找食餌了。驚心動魄的一個上午！

　　烤肉店，貌似都叫神馬parillas。看著樣銀哈喇子之流。。。

食肉動物的天堂 

看俺在拍照，男服務員擺出了女性叉腰動作，很有幽默感

　牛肉部點陣圖

餐廳的門臉兒，這種烤肉餐廳叫parrilla，發音是「帕里亞」，餐廳的名稱是el gaucho parilla  - 牛仔烤肉

俺們點了個兩人份兒的燒烤，有香腸，牛排，雞排，豬排 - 反正是撐得夠嗆。牛排有點費牙嚼得腮幫子疼。總共花了260比索（包括一瓶375ml的葡萄酒），購便宜的。

這孩紙吃飯真搗蛋 - 啥都不吃！人家過了一歲生日就自覺自願的當了素食主義者。吃飯基本是白米飯，連菜都不怎麼吃。好在她喝奶的功夫一流，營養還算跟得上。

酒足飯飽，俺們就腿兒這上布宜諾斯著名的墓地去瞧瞧。原來以為墓地還能咋地，到跟前一看他還真是能咋地！原來這是個死人炫富的地方。這些個墓地真是精耕細作各有鞦韆。正好趕上周日附近還有廟會擺攤的很熱鬧。

一路走過去

這是另一個古老的劇院

猶太教堂？

路過一個公園 

 雷科萊塔公墓入口

墓地地有很多名人。其中之一便是貝隆夫人。所以找她的墓地也是到這兒參觀的項目之一。俺們就隨隨便便的大概看了一下，當然貝隆夫人的墓也沒瞄見什麼樣兒！這些墓修的真是挺費心思的。

百度百科
布宜諾斯艾利斯國家公墓 
布宜諾斯艾利斯國家公墓，又稱貴族墓園，迄今為止，這座佔地10英畝的陵墓中安息著大約7000個阿根廷社會歷代精英。該墓園是布宜諾斯艾利斯最古老的公墓，公墓原是教堂後花園，1822年成為墓地。阿根廷很多名門望族，都會在這裡購買墓室。如今已有23位阿根廷正副總統安息此處。

簡介
布宜諾斯艾利斯國家公墓，長長的蔓藤、萋萋的芳草、深深的墓園，刻滿了歲月滄桑的雕塑，處處瀰漫著歐式的浪漫和憂傷。國家公墓又稱貴族墓園，迄今為止，這座佔地10英畝的陵墓中安息著大約7000個阿根廷社會歷代精英。該墓園是布宜諾斯艾利斯最古老的公墓，公墓原是教堂後花園，1822年成為墓地。它僅限於安葬達官顯貴。而在阿根廷，貴族身份確定是十分嚴格的，需要其家族擁有十世以上的榮耀。歷經十世的榮耀保持，非「暴發戶」可以偶然「入流」。因此國家公墓自誕生起就奠定了其「貴族血統」。而歐式宮殿的陵墓建築風格定位則更強化了墓主的顯赫身份。阿根廷很多名門望族，都會在這裡購買墓室。如今已有23位阿根廷正副總統安息此處。

國家公墓，憑藉著高貴的定位，成了身份、地位和榮譽的象徵，也成了阿根廷民眾最嚮往的「永久家園」。國家公墓所在的街區也是布宜諾斯艾利斯市最繁華的貴族區，墓園前面就是貴族咖啡廳、品牌商鋪。而這座世界知名墓園，不顯山不露水，寧靜地佇立在那一條條時尚的街道之間，與周邊售價昂貴的商鋪、裝飾典雅的咖啡屋，自然地融合在一起。每到周末，公墓外的法蘭西廣場會聚集上百個各色手工藝小攤主，組成了布宜諾斯艾利斯最著名的特色集市[1]  。

特點
舉目望去， 國家公墓到處都是雕塑，其中不乏歐洲名家的構思奇特、寓意無窮的雕塑精品。雕塑有勇武的猛士、柔媚的女神。除西方傳說中的守護神鵰塑外，部分墓園還有生活化的一些雕塑，如墓室前後的侍女、小童和貓狗等動物，殿檐上還有吉祥天使的雕塑等。雕塑的面容祥和溫婉，有模仿生時景象的痕迹。有的陵墓還有畫卷般的敘事雕塑，追敘幾代人的奮鬥史。精工細作，意義悠長。他們使用雕塑來表現家族的思想特徵和行為特色，記錄家族的興旺歷程。[2]  迄今為止，這一座佔地10英畝的陵墓中安息著大約7000個阿根廷社會歷代精英。布宜諾斯艾利斯國家公墓是布宜諾斯艾利斯最古老的公墓，公墓原是教堂後花園，在1822年成為墓地。布宜諾斯艾利斯國家公墓僅限於安葬達官顯貴。而在阿根廷，貴族身份的確定是十分嚴格的，需要其家族擁有十世以上的榮耀。歷經十世的榮耀保持，非暴發戶就可以偶然入流。所以國家公墓自誕生起就奠定了其「貴族血統」。而歐式宮殿的陵墓建築風格定位則更加強化了墓主的顯赫身份。阿根廷很多名門望族，都會在布宜諾斯艾利斯國家公墓購買墓室。時下已有23位阿根廷正副總統安息此處。

 這兒就是死人鬥富的架勢

 走累了歇會兒

 頭一回看見這麼豪華的墓地

能上這兒住的應該是非富即貴了

嘆為觀止，堪稱一絕！

看完了墓地到外面的小店吃點喝點兒，天已擦黑打了個車回酒店。據說在布一諾斯打車要打radio taxi，要不然容易被宰。俺們遵守這一規則沒出過狀況。車門上寫著呢，很容易辨認。

外國人對墓地沒啥忌諱，大家都跟逛公園一樣

俺們的服務生，貌似受了很大的委屈 

寶寶眯了一覺醒來在逗俺們玩兒呢！

今天就這麼結束了，來布一諾斯兩天了還沒找到感覺。不過今天比昨天感覺要好些 ，當然，除了那個搶劫未遂！

 明天飛烏施維亞ushuaia。早早地在網上訂了出租車。早睡早起。

day two

thanks for all the feedbacks and good suggestions. will take note. since i am a bit short on time here because we were pretty much out and about all the time, let's get on with the main story.

we had a very exciting start yesterday. as we walked out of the hotel around 12:00 noon after a very good night of sleep we didn't notice anything unusual. i was in my t-shirt and shorts because of the hot weather with my camera strapped across my body. a couple of blocks away we were at the oblisk. by this time i noticed that the two kids i saw at our hotel door were still behind us. i told my wife that i thought these two kids were after my camera. i even took pictures of them to let them know that i knew what they were up to. but they were not shy. i guess they just thought my camera was too good to pass. by the time we walked the across the street they were still tagging us. we decided to go into a mcd to cool them off. right at the time i was lifting the stroller up the steps my wife turned back and saw one of the two kids were reaching out for my camera. i guess he still was a bit shy to do while the owner was staring at him so he backed off. and we went into the mcd. two passers-by signed us to keep our eyes on the camera.

we sat in the mcd for about 5 minutes and had some juice. we went out again to lavalle street to get more cash for we were to fly to ushuaia the next day. we found another store that would do 8 to 1 - didn't really push for more becaue it was plenty good already. while we were waiting for the store owner to get his pesos we saw the same two kids picked up by two cops - they got caught taking some stuff from a young man's backpack. we also to the cops that the same two kids were trying to rob us earlier. while we were doing the money exchange in the store one the cop showed up and asked us if we would go to the police station with him. we said were too busy to do that. i don't know what finally happened, but it didn't look like they took the two kids away - guess someone has to file a report against them.

well, this was a bit disappointing. our first impression of buenos aires wasn't as great as we had hoped because comparing to these other cities we've been to this city has yet to offer anything for us to get excited. now combined with the robbery attempt and construction sites everywhere near centro it didn't look so pretty.

we went back to hotel to put extra pesos in the safe before we went out again for lunch. by now it was about 2pm. we had lunch at el gaucho on lavalle street. we ordered mixed meats for two with steaks, ribs, chicken, sausuges. it was more than we could eat, but i did manage to finish all the meats except chicken because i don't like chicken so much. my wife wasn't very helpful on this endaver. the flavor of meats and sausuges is pretty good. beef texture is very different from that in the usa due to fact cattles here are grass fed. however, i have to say i had a lot of wear and tear on my teeth and jaw after the meal. price was more than fare. with a 375ml bottle of wine the tab came out to be 260 pesos after a 30% discount.

we walked to recoleta cemetery after lunch. recoleta had a very different feel. with a stree fair going on and bands playing on the streets it looked like crowds around the cemetary were having a decent sunday afternoon. didn't seem there were packs of hyenas waiting for their turns to attach the buffalos. speaking of these hyenas, when we went back to lavalle street to have lunch we saw at three spots people reporting to the police that they were stolen and at another spot a cop was questioning a youth - not looking pretty!

recoleta ceremetary was very interesting - a place for dead people to show off. these tombs were taking a lot of work to built, some are very artifully decorated. totally worth the time. we didn't hire a guide and we couldn't figure out where mrs peron's tomb was... oh well. afterwards, we had some drinks at a near by cafe and took a cab back to the hotel.