造化神奇

六月末的拓浪彌草地 (Tuolumne Meadows)

高山雪水泄落特尼亞湖 (Teneya Lake)

過了山口，一路下坡直達莫諾盆地 (Mono Basin)，那莫諾湖 (Mono Lake) 就在視野之中。120號公路與395號高速在此相接，一下子成了雙線高速，又平又直，車子跑起來飛快。二十五英里轉眼就過去了，改道203號公路，專線去魔界宮柱堆，途經曼莫斯湖鎮 (Mammoth Lakes)。過了曼莫斯湖鎮才幾個英里不到，就有一個國家森林局的門關，進入車輛收費20美元。才想起來這已經是另一個國家公園，全名叫叫作魔界宮柱堆國家保護區 (Devil's Postpile National Monument)，比國家公園小一檔次。門口掛有一告示牌子，說是宿營地的21個地盤尚有11個空閑，好消息令人鼓舞。再開15英里就到了營地，其實只有6-7個地盤空著，但對我們來說，一個就夠了。有了地盤，似乎這一天就變得有序多了。
 

石陣令人拍案叫絕
 
等一切都收拾停當，時鐘指向2點30分，也就是說，這一路開了6個小時，當然中間吃過早餐，停車看過風景。此時還沒到放鬆的時間，吃了些水果，零食，就該去參觀魔界宮柱堆了，本次旅行就是沖著那堆石頭來的。

 

魔界宮柱堆的石陣

十萬年前地殼還在運動，恰巧這裡的熔岩十分均勻，恰巧一直沒遇上劇烈的造山運動，熔岩得以逐漸冷卻，在釋放熱量和張力的過程中，熱脹冷縮，造就了一個個六角形的玄武岩石柱。自然界最穩當形狀莫過於六角形啊。這一切原本是在地表之下默然進行的，幾千年裡潛移默化。到了大約兩萬年前的冰川紀，挾持億萬噸能量的冰山運動硬生生地把地面刮開，這石頭就露出了地表。那舉重若輕的冰層經過時把一個個六角形石柱頂端打磨得光滑錚亮。然後，冰山塌陷，就有一方壯麗的石陣露出，接受幾萬年的風吹雨淋，洪水泛濫，天也搖過，地也動過，有些石柱倒塌了，摔碎了，六角依然，歲月留下這雄偉的方陣一片。

 

被冰川打磨后的石柱頂部

 

最近一次威脅來自人類。在上世紀初那場狂熱的淘金熱里，有人建議把這片山地從優勝美地國家公園 (Yosemite National Park) 分出來。人心瘋狂哦，為了幾兩金子，石陣必須炸平，大河必須攔截，填谷修壩，連不遠處那婀娜多姿的彩虹瀑布 (Rainbow Falls) 也在謀殺之列，多少美麗繫於千鈞一髮啊。好在有仁人志士奔走呼號，鬧到了白宮，非但沒炸，這片土地反而成立了一個國家保護區：魔界宮柱堆國家保護區 (Devil's Postpile National Monument)，不再受優勝美地國家公園管轄。魔界，大概是因為這是匪夷所思，人力所不能及的世間奇迹吧。

 

遊人不勝驚嘆，照相機咔嚓作響。有小路從下至上快繞一圈，這一切真是匪夷所思，如此小的地盤竟能給人如此震撼，似乎眨眼之間，這個星球的過去和未來一下子銜接得天衣無縫了呢。

 

 

彩虹瀑布婀娜多姿

 

好像除了我，人人都喜歡去湖裡河裡游泳。開車將他們送到蘇澈湖 (Sotcher Lake）邊，就一個人徑直朝山上去了。時間緊迫，這裡有如此眾多的瀑布湖泊等待觀賞；那些高山深谷想都沒時間想啊。山谷里有免費汽車，把有人從一個景點帶到另一個景點，這樣人們一天可以多去些地方。

 

午後的彩虹瀑布

彩虹瀑布的景色之美妙僅次於魔界宮柱堆那鬼斧天成的石陣。人行山路口的停車場距離宿營地僅僅一英里，出車一看，好哇，小路寬敞，路標清晰，行人眾多，看來這一回我想迷路也不成了。一英里多些的路程一忽兒就到了，就能聽到聖瓦昆河(San Joaquin River)和瀑布那悅耳的聲音。一條大河從101英尺高處的火山岩石上落下，那聲音就能響徹山谷。瀑布神奇，陽光一旦照在瀑布上，就會有彩虹出現，往往還是雙道的，把個翠綠的水簾裝點得更加妖嬈。遊人都看呆了，照片一張接著一張的拍，孩子們鬧著要與瀑布更親近些。還真有石階讓人們走近整個內華達山脈里最美麗的瀑布。

 

因為石質之別有了瀑布

因為來時路程不遠，我有充裕的時間拾階而下，與大瀑布來個零距離接近，走近了，就有漫天水霧迎面降落，天熱，那種涼爽感非常舒服。

 

 

蘇澈湖

 

回到蘇澈湖，游泳的人們已經離開了。湖就在鋪了瀝青的路邊，很方便。不遠處還有個瀑布，但是快六點鐘了，晚飯之前我還有幾個大的景點要去呢。

 

湖邊荷花金燦燦

還是很喜愛這座小湖，湖面斜陽下顯得格外平靜，唯有幾個釣魚人此時還守候在巨大的陰涼里，對面的山峰聳立，高大而安靜。照了幾張湖景，山景，和一些不常見的黃燦燦的荷花就離開了。

 

原來他們去湖裡游泳很快就離開了，說是水太深，顏色詭異，有溺水和水怪之憂，寧肯與水流湍急的聖瓦昆河(San Joaquin River)相擁相抱。從冰雪流下來的河水冰冷至極，可是那種清新透徹的感覺令人久久難忘呢。

 

 

米納瑞特瀑布

 

搭手點燃了燒烤爐的木炭，算是我對晚飯的貢獻。離晚飯至少還有一個小時，現在是6點30分，我一個人盤算著，應該能在天黑之前去米納瑞特瀑布(Minaret Falls）看一眼回來的。沒費多大神就就找到了過河的小木橋，這橋可不僅僅只供人們去看瀑布之用，那貫穿整個內華達山脈的約翰·繆爾山路(John Muir Trail)和連接墨西哥，加拿大，阿拉斯加的太平洋山脊（多麼寬廣的地域啊）的跨國山路(Pacific Crest Trail)，就在這裡上交匯，過河。

 

四通八達的小木橋

 

一路緊趕慢趕。米納瑞特瀑布地處高山的東坡，人就走在山的陰影里，而且那太陽似乎很著急降落呢。通常一英里半的路程對我來說算不了什麼；只是要與時間賽跑，就變得艱難而漫長了許多。這山不僅高聳入天，黑影巨大，而且方圓數里空無一人，一路走到瀑布腳下竟未遇見一個遊人。儘管常常隻身漫遊，心中沒有懼怕，還是能感覺傍晚的高山猶如巨獸。無人敢肯定，那大河的濤聲就沒有掩飾野獸一雙雙覬覦的眼睛，從樹后，石頭縫裡，觀察著我的一舉一動。退卻是不可能的，只有往前了，半小時之內就找到了瀑布，真是腳下如飛哪。

 

米納瑞特瀑布張牙舞爪

 

飛瀑狂野，張牙舞爪，跟早些時候看到的彩虹瀑布的美麗高雅截然相反，米納瑞特瀑布從270英尺高的懸崖瘋狂撲來，巨大的水流與沿途的巨石怪石發了瘋地撕咬踢騰，跟彩虹瀑布降落101英尺的那種優雅沒有任何相似之處。只見它一路吼叫。不依不饒。平生第一次讓頭頂的河水弄得不寒而慄。人明明站在穩固的大石上，嘴裡卻有一種不安的艱澀，黑暗在擴張，山似巨獸，曠野無人，一股巨流，震耳欲聾。既然這一切是沖我而來的，我就必須面對大山，面對挑戰。光線很差，但還是站在瀑布腳下，摁動快門。回來一看，那光線差得離譜，從崖頂透出的強光把個瀑布弄得綠不綠藍不藍，顏色怪異。當時心中發毛，無暇考慮光線取景諸多問題，光是站穩腳跟，保持氣定神閑就很難得了。不僅沒有逃跑，反而沿著瀑布左側攀岩而上，多照幾張，總有能看的，我安慰著自己。

 

是該回去了，河谷對面的大山上那閃爍的陽光給人很大的安慰。該吃晚飯了，但是人卻站在高高的懸崖上。看來著急不得，必須面對每一塊石頭，每一堆樹叢，每棵大樹，攀援而下，回歸山下的來路。步行大山就是要時刻注意安全，計算時間。

 

歸途中遇到一個單身旅人，歐洲口音，就好心告訴他，要看瀑布得趕緊些的，天要黑了。可那人對瀑布不是太感興趣，那是用雙腳丈量太平洋山脊之路的旅人，也沒問他走了多少天了，只見他身背行李鋪蓋，吃食用品，風塵僕僕。為了安慰我，他說他今晚不會走得太遠，八點鐘左右就停下來支帳篷，安營紮寨，走哪算哪，「水邊最好」。我看了一下表，7點15分。我的天哪，他還要再走兩英里左右呢，孤身進入大山深處，在荒無人煙的地方過夜，那需要多少勇敢和沉著哪！他的心中沒有懼怕，面對一個內華達山脈的挑戰，眼睛都不帶眨巴的。那一刻，我對自己之前那些疙疙瘩瘩的感受覺得可笑，我這就要走出林子，很快就能吃一頓熱呼呼的晚餐了。

 

 

寒夜

 

回來正趕上晚餐，太陽剛落，暮色中正是蚊蟲猖獗的時候。大山裡森林裡的蚊子沒有忌諱，不知進退，團團圍住任何活物，動物，有血就叮。什麼驅蚊劑，驅蟲劑，全不管用。很快大家的脖子，手腕子，腳脖子被叮起一個一個小包。只是不耐煩地揮手驅蟲，就在不經意間拍打死了好幾個蚊子，手上都染上了血跡，令人皺眉。好在天一黑凈了，那蚊蟲就散去了。

 

附近有一溫泉，提供免費淋浴。經過這一天的勞累，天然溫泉淋浴實在是太誘人了。開車走了一段土路，在另一家露營地的邊上找到了溫泉，人多，還要站隊，大家就在一排簡陋猶如軍營或牢房的小木房子前面等著。房子裡邊什麼也沒有，洗澡者自帶光源，毛巾，香皂，洗頭膏；有帶小孩的人家還帶了大木盆，塑料盆，叮叮噹噹，好不熱鬧。等到了，進去了，水泥地板，水泥池子，讓人不禁想起了國內大學時代的公共澡堂子。斗轉星移，我竟被眼前的景象鎮住了，不敢下手，這樣的地方如何淋浴？愣了不到半分鐘，還是把淋浴打開了，泉水稍微燙人，沖在身上很舒服的。

 

天黑了，篝火點燃了，蚊蟲也退了。我早早就去睡了，因為明天還有很長一段路，開車，步行。只是躺在那裡一兩個小時都沒睡著，山裡的空氣愈來愈冷。後來，也許借那河水的聲音，大腦放鬆，竟然睡著了，醒來時已是凌晨五點多鐘。對一個在外露營很少能睡得著的人，這已經相當好了。

 

天色轉亮，看了一下表，氣溫已降到45華氏度（攝氏7度半）。我是不可能再睡著了，就起床最後一次探訪魔界宮柱堆。晨光還沒有照射到山谷，一頭鹿在悠閑的晃動。我的出現讓它大吃一驚，為此覺得慚愧，不該在別人的地盤驚擾人家。心中有一種自豪感，竟然在距這自然界奇迹不到半英里的地方住了一夜呢。

 

 

泰崖勾湖和特尼亞湖

 

聽了我的敘說，游泳者對那彩虹瀑布大感興趣，早晨七點鐘過就起床了，收起帳篷，告別宿營地，去觀彩虹。八點四十五分左右，太陽已經照到瀑布上了，看到隨著水霧起伏的彩虹，人人高興而歸。

 

到曼莫斯湖鎮 (Mammoth Lakes)匆忙吃了個早餐，抓緊時間再訪優勝美地山谷和泰崖勾山口 (Tiago Pass)那些令人目瞪口呆的美景，昨天忙著趕路，錯過了些地方，沒能端詳仔細了。

 

泰崖勾湖(Tiago Lake)之晨景

395號高速舒直，車行如風，可一旦拐入120好公路，就是大上坡，車子像蝸牛沿著巨大無比的冰川邊沿匍匐而上，昔日的冰川還在努力朝山谷轉化，生機一線一線在添加。整個山谷在得納山峰(Mount Dana)高入雲端那一萬三千多英尺的冷眼注視下，顯得影影綽綽。車的發動機不斷的轟鳴，嗡嗡作響，苦苦爬行。也許起床太早，也許水面不足，大片大片的積雪在晨陽下反射著強光，一股一股的雪水從高高的山樑上瀉落，不知不覺間我的眼睛濕潤了，悲傷和激動在眼睛里打旋。我的前生與這個巨大的瘡疤，無限的美景有何淵源？真想停車一下子投入到高原這泣天地驚鬼神的傷疤里去；同時又督促自己快開，快點遠離這個令滄桑巨變的血腥古戰場，脆弱的心臟需要一塊靜地去歇息，去恢復寧靜。這掙扎是緊繃繃的喲。我沒有停車，因為前後一大排車一個跟著一個，轟轟隆隆地企圖在15分鐘之內爬高四千英尺。

 

繞過了那天地寬闊的冰川，我打算在埃勒瑞湖（Ellery Lake）邊停留一會兒，那湖面有大雪峰倒影，這一路算可謂最佳，只是時間都不允許呢。一看車都到了泰崖勾湖(Tiago Lake)了，我就有些迫不及待了，下車就5分鐘，照幾張像，四處張望張望，即使站著不動，那靈魂和身心都得到了極大的撫慰。這裡實在是太美麗了，分明是大明星的地域，人們從世界各地紛涌而來，一睹芳顏。她有多美麗？這麼說吧，這裡的一草，一木，一花，一石，每一座高山，每一池湖水，每一條小溪大河，每一簾瀑布，都稱得上美人身上佩戴的完美無缺的珠寶。路途雖然遙遠，開車雖然費時，但這豐厚的收穫絕對夠本，足夠一個人享用一輩子的。

 

再見特尼亞湖 (Teneya Lake)時，內心起伏的情感就只剩下甜蜜和快樂了。停下車來，再照幾張像，赤腳泡在涼爽的湖水裡，感受那可人的水溫，感受真正的心曠神怡。看了一下表，和昨天幾乎是同一時間呢，都是正午路經此湖。難怪這高山湖水如此溫熱，今天的太陽似乎比以往要熱烈許多。

 

 

永遠的優勝美地

 

優勝美地本身足夠寫一個長篇遊記，多麼的美麗詞眼用在她身上都不算誇張。這麼簡單概述是因為以前多次專訪，文章也寫過了。但是必須給這次旅行做一個完整的交待，所以就寫了這幾行。

 

飄帶瀑布 (Ribbon Falls)正掛谷中

再回優勝美地那是因為過門而不入實在禮貌，再說了，來時使用120號公路繳了門票，那票一個禮拜都有效呢。

 

新娘面紗瀑(Bridalveil Falls)得意洋洋

過了這麼多年，什麼都沒改變，那峽谷的景緻依然令人目不暇接，在這世上獨樹一幟。我最喜愛的觀景點能從遠處看到半拱峰(Half Dome)，可惜這一次在施工，沒法停車，只好繼續趕路。往前不遠，另一個觀景點將個飄帶瀑布 (Ribbon Falls)看得個正著，這我以前還沒注意過。只是那裡人多，沒法靠近。再往前不久就到了新娘面紗瀑(Bridalveil Falls)了，停車場滿員，實在是罕見，沒轍，只好把車停在幾百英尺遠的路邊上，再徒步回來參觀。真可謂人山人海，大家都來觀賞六月天的瀑布，水流量大。我以前總是八月來訪，天干水瘦。接著往前去找半拱峰，去向他老人家行大禮了。當然，誰也無法忽視艾爾克匹壇(El Capitan)，一塊石頭，一整塊比許多大山要高大許多的純花崗岩，就那樣直戳戳的聳立在新娘面紗瀑對面，沉默寡言，猶如一個哲學老人。每次從他面前經過，心中都會產生一種由衷的敬佩。大自然真是奇妙無比。到了半拱峰停車場，也就到了這條狹長緊促的山谷的終端。在那裡人才覺得這天氣真是奇熱無比，空氣像泥漿，慢鏡頭般滑動，從樹梢樹葉泄落的陽光呈橘紅色，似在沸騰。谷底樹多且高大，得到一張半拱峰的理想照還真不那麼容易，此時也沒有時間和精力去爬高與這個失去了前半邊但又聞名於世的拱形山峰近距離親近了。

 

遠看優勝美地瀑布(Yosemite Falls)的第一梯(Uppper Fall)

真是奇怪的一天，去看半拱峰，那山總也不露面，而那優勝美地瀑布(Yosemite Falls)的第一梯(Uppper Fall)總是出現在視野里。好吧，那就去看看這簾從谷頂奔涌到谷底的瀑布吧，縱身一跳，就是739米(折2,420 英尺)，張張揚揚，裸體面世，沒有羞澀。儘管停車花了很多時間，從停車場到瀑布腳下還有半英里的路程，所有的麻煩都值得呀，這裡應該一去再去，每次都有看頭。

 

走近半拱峰(Half Dome)

這山谷里的每個景點都值得花一整天去遊玩。而優勝美地的奇妙絕非這些眾人皆知的景點所能概括得了；還有很多常人所看不到的令人如入仙境的景點。舉個例子吧，美麗的墨賽德河(Merced River)和眾多的溪流奔流到山谷，就形成了大大小小，形形色色，美輪美奐的瀑布。這裡列舉一下這些瀑布的名稱和高度吧，優勝美地瀑布 （Yosemite Falls ，2,425 英尺），新娘面紗瀑（Bridalveil Fall ，620 英尺），Vernal Fall (317 f英尺)，內華達瀑布（ Nevada Fall ，594 英尺），飄帶瀑布（Ribbon Fall ，1,612 英尺），馬尾巴瀑布（Horsetail Fall ，1,000 英尺), Illilouette Fall  (370 英尺), Wapama Falls (1,400 英尺), and Chilnualna Falls (約2,200 英尺)。再加上星羅棋布的高山湖，形狀各異，還有匪夷所思的巨大的花崗岩山峰石陣，看得人浮想聯翩，情思奔涌。可惜我們沒有時間在這裡久留。以後找時間專們來訪吧，但願到時不會如此擁擠。

 

近看優勝美地瀑布(Yosemite Falls)的第二梯(Lower Fall)

旅程2009年6月27-28日

英文寫於2009年6月30日-7月3日

翻譯2009年7月3-6日

 

Face Up to Big Mountains

 

1. The Inspiration
 

A glance at a picture was enough to inspire a trip across Sierra Nevada.  A year ago, I saw Devil's Postpile online; the fantastic and out-of-this-worldly rock formation captured me on the spot.  I wanted to pack up and go camping there right away.  Unfortunately it was too late in the season as winter was about to lock up the higher elevations for the best of half year.  The High Sierras gets cold and unbearable most of the year; this place becomes suitable for human activity only during a few precious summer months.  Patience aplenty was required to nurture a desire to get close with such a marvelous natural wonder. 

 

Huge Granite Peak near Teneya Lake

Heavy traffic was at the Entrance to Yosemite as a mile of cars lined up to pay the park entrance fees ($20).  Drivers chatted with rangers working in the kiosks because it was a long drive and everyone in the car became excited to be there.  Granted, many people were visiting Yosemite National Park for the first time.  Still, they should cut off their sweet talks because people were being cooked sitting in the car at high noon.  Passing the gate, there were still more than 25 miles to reach Yosemite Valley proper.  Some of us weren't even going to the Yosemite Valley, for crying out loud.
 
Inside the park, cars traveled in reduced speed because the road was winding, mountains tall and valleys deep, and also because every vehicle was heavy with bicycles and camping equipments.  We couldn't swing as fast as on regular highways.  Thank goodness, the turn to Route 120 soon came up and we left the long line of cars that aimed at Yosemite.  For many, going to Yosemite was a major trip.  But for us, this was only two thirds of the way, still 90 to 100 miles to reach the east slopes of Sierra Nevada. 
 
This part of the drive in the high country became an eye-opener.  Never before had I traveled along Route 120 past Olmstead Point.  This Point itself left a deep impression because through deep granite canyon the back of famed Half Dome could be seen.  As usual, the Vista Point was filled with cars and people with cameras or posing for pictures.  In the wide arms of nature's grandeur, everyone became a little kid, wanting to climb up and own and hugging each rock big and small.  The views there were amazing but not completely unfathomable because I had been here twice in the past.  
 
After that Point, the scenery seemed to become even more glorious, largely due to the fact that I had never ventured past that point in my life.  A couple of years ago we were looking for Teneya Lake but could only reach Olmstead Point due to time constraint.  So, I was utterly amazed to find Teneya Lake a few minutes down the road.  The lake was large, an alpine lake nestled among towering granite peaks.  Those seemingly harsh peaks stared back at the afternoon sunlight with utter silence and severity.  They had their presence felt by everything that was close, human hearts for sure.  I must stop the car, to look at them, to take pictures, to take in the waterfalls high up there on the shoulders of the rocky ridge.  A giant wore a billion dollar jewelry under broad daylight.  The sight was unforgettable once taken in.  Patches of snow high up seemed to have become insignificant, even in a hot summer day.  The water in the lake had this deep blue color; everything was rich, silent and proud.  I could stand there for days without feeling bored.
 

Tuolumne Meadows in late June

But we must move on, for there were still many miles to go and it was midday already.  But wait, after a few huge mountain peaks, there was this expansive green meadow.  We were at Tuolumne Meadows, a stretch of flat valley floor in the middle of tall peaks and energetic creeks and river, Tuolumne River, of course.  This was campers' heaven.  They had huge campgrounds and canvas tent resorts and yet reservation was hard to come by.  We pushed onwards, through quite a few mirror-like alpine lakes and peaks that reach over 13,000 feet towards the heavens.  At Tiago Pass which itself was only shade under 10,000 feet, they checked our receipt to make sure that we paid our $20 fee to the National Park. 

From there on it was downhill all the way to Mono Basin where we could see Mono Lake in distance.  We were there to connect with Highway 395, a two lane freeway, fairly straight and easy to travel.  About 25 miles later, we found the exit to Route 203 that led to Devil's Postpile, through the town of Mammoth Lakes.  A few miles past Mammoth Lakes, the National Forest Service had a gate that collected $20 from us for the use of their service.  So, we were in another national park, though it was called Devil's Postpile National Monument, a tad smaller in size than national parks.  At the gate it was posted 11 of the 21 camping sites was still available.  Marvelous news.  Another 15 miles later, we found our campground, with only 6-7 sites available.  But, for us, one was enough. With a spot to sleep for the night, things seemed to become orderly in a hurry.
 
3. Amazing Rock Formation

The time was about 2:30 in the afternoon when we settled down.  That was to say, the drive lasted over 6 hours, including stopovers and breakfast, of course.  Still, this was no time to relax.  After some drinks, fruit and snack, it was time for the main attraction, Devil's Postpile.  

Full View of Devil's Postpile

About 100,000 years ago volcanic activity was winding down in Earth's crust.  It happened a huge bed of hot lava gradually cooled down, ever so evenly.  In the cooling process, to release tension, vertical columns of basalt in the shape of hexagon were formed.  Still the entire formation was buried under a thick layer of earth.  Then came the Ice Age about 20,000 years ago, glacier movement took the layer of earth off this part of the lava bed.  Not only did the glaciation exposed columns but also polished tops of the hexagonal columns.  Then there was a big river, the magnificent San Joaquin River, and rain, and snow, and fierce wind, all contributed to mold the shape of this uniformed cliff of columnar basalt we could see today.  We arrived at a very good time as the afternoon sun just cast its brilliant light onto those beautiful columns of standing rocks.
 
A few woos and ahs were exchanged and all the cameras were clicking.  A loop trail from the bottom to the top then down was quickly taken.  It was unbelievable. Such a small place could evoke such tremendous feelings in human heart.  Suddenly the history of earth connected the future with its past.
 
4. Rainbow Falls

It seemed that everyone except me liked to swim in lakes and rivers.  After dropping them off at Lake Sotcher, I went into the mountains. Time was pressing as so many waterfalls and lakes were waiting to be explored; so much so that I had got no time to even think about peaks and huge moraines.  As a matter of fact, this 10 mile long valley had a shuttle bus to move tourists from one spot to another, for free, so they could view as many spots in a day as they could manage. 

Rainbow Falls basked in the afternoon sun

Rainbow Falls ranked a close second t the mind-blowing rock formation of Devil's Postpile in terms of scenic value.  The trailhead was only a short mile drive from our campground.  After the car was parked, I was happy to see the trail was well marked, wide and easy to navigate.  So, there was no chance for me to get lost as I saw many visitors along the way.  The distance from the trailhead to the waterfalls was a bit over a mile.  Before long, the beautiful sound of the mighty San Joaquin River and the cascading water could be heard.  When a river plunges 101-feet over a cliff of volcanic rock, it makes some big noise.  The beauty of this fall was whenever the sunlight cast on the water, a rainbow and often double rainbows could be seen to decorate the already picturesque cascade of green water.  People were mesmerized; pictures were taken; children wanted to get to closer to the water.  Indeed, there were stone steps to the bottom of one of the most glorious waterfalls of the entire Sierra Nevada.
 
Since the hiking part was easy so I had time to go down to the stone steps, close enough to feel the mist splashing on my face.  I loved the cooling sensation in the middle of a hot day.
 
5. Sotcher Lake
 
I went back to Sotcher Lake to look for the swimmers but they had left. The Lake was located along the paved road and was readily accessible.  There was a waterfall not far from the lake at all; but, time was fast clicking towards 6 pm and I had one more major place to go before dinner. 

Sotcher Lake in late evening

I loved this lake as it appeared so serene in the later afternoon light.  Only a few anglers remained in the expanding shade.  The mountains across loomed large, majestic and quiet.  I took some pictures of the lake, the mountains and some precious bright yellow water lilies and left.
 
As it turned out, the swimmers didn't stay at Sotcher Lake for long.  They claimed that the water got deep too fast.  They were afraid of drowning and also water monsters in dark and deep water.  So, they went to swim in the fast moving San Joaquin River.  The river water was fed by melting snow thus icy cold.  However, the fresh feeling provided the swimmers with a good time that they wouldn't forget for a long time.

6. Minaret Falls
 
I started the charcoal for the grill; that counted as my contribution for tonight's cooking.  Dinner won't be ready at least one hour later.  It was 6:30.  I had a quick calculation in my mind and thought I might just have time to catch a glimpse of the Ninaret Falls before dark.  I quickly found the little wooden bridge.  Not only did this bridge take to Minaret Falls but also it provided John Muir and the Pacific Crest trails a way to cross the San Joaquin River at this juncture.  John Muir trail zigzags across the entire Sierra Nevada and certainly goes to Yosemite.  The Pacific Crest trail in turn connects Alaska, Canada, US West Coast and Mexico, mind-boggling territories to imagine. 

Wooden Bridge across San Joaquin River

I was in a hurry because Minaret Falls were located on the east slope of the tall mountains.  Not only were the waterfalls already in dark shadows but the sun was setting fast.  Normally a mile and a half was nothing for me.  But when I had to race against the clock, it felt long and hard.  The mountains were tall and shadowy but also largely empty.  I met not one person all the way to the bottom of the waterfalls.  Even though lone hikers like myself had no fear, the mountains appeared monstrous nonetheless at this hour.  Nobody knew if the onrushing river noise actually helped to disguise a few wild beasts behind some trees and rocks taking a peek at me.  I wasn't going to quit yet and I found the waterfalls in less than half hour.  That was real fast walking.
 
The waterfalls were wild and menacing.  Unlike the beautiful Rainbow Fall I saw earlier in bright sunlight, Minaret Falls seemed to jump off the dark cliffs above.  Powerful flow of water kicked and screamed its way down huge boulders and rock outcrops.  Compared with tamed 101 feet of Rainbow Falls, this wild beast roared down for 270 feet.  For the first time in my life, I felt a bit threatened by water directly above my head.  Though I was safely standing on steady rocks, I still could taste the bitterness of the insecure feeling stirred by the darkness, the enormity of the mountains, the emptiness of the place, and the unyielding noise of angry water.  It was a challenge I must face, alone.  I knew the light was rather heinous but took some pictures at the base of the waterfall nonetheless.  Later I discovered that the light was terrible because stronger sunlight above the cliff rendered the waterfalls into ghostly dark blue.  Under the circumstances, I had no time to think about light and angles.  It required concentration to just stand firm on my legs and pretended everything was normal.  I was not going to run away from this.  I even climbed up on the left side of the waterfalls and took some more pictures, with the hope that a few of my shots would be viewable.

The fierce Minaret Falls

It was time to go back.  It was such a solace to see a few tall peaks on the other side of the river gorge still basked in warm evening sunlight.  It was time for dinner.  But, I was on top of a steep cliff.  I couldn't rush, for I must deal with each rock, each bush and tree along the way before descending to the trail down below.  This was essentially a hiker's constant task, keeping an eye on both time and safety.  
 
On my way back, I met one guy, speaking with European accent.  I told him that he should hurry up if he wanted to see the waterfalls.  But, no, he wasn't interested in any waterfalls.  He was hiking the Pacific Crest trail, for who knows how many days already, with full gear of tent, food supply on his back.  As if to console me, he said that he was going to stop somewhere in the wilderness around 8 o'clock, 「preferably by the water.」  I looked at my wristwatch, it was 7:15.  Good lord, he was going for another two miles into the depth of those monstrous mountains and spent the night all by his lonesome.  That spoke volumes for this man's courage.  He really had no fear.  He accepted the challenge of the entire Sierra Nevada without blinking his eyes.  Suddenly I felt funny about the fear bubbling inside.  I was about to be out of the woods and into the campground with hot food soon. 
 
7. Cold Night
 
I got back to the campsite just in time for dinner.  The sun had just set.  Dusk was when mosquitoes and other bugs became most active and vicious.  In the high mountains and deep woods, those bugs knew no fear or quit.  They swarmed around anything alive or moving, seeking blood.  Insect repellent didn't seem to bother them all.  Soon, we had a lot of bites around the neck, wrist and even ankle areas.  I easily killed a dozen just by waving my hands around my head.  My hand became a bit bloody from deep and broken bugs.  It was disgusting.  Good that bugs took a fast retreat after it was completely dark.
 
There was a hot spring nearby offering free showers.  A warm shower of natural spring water sounded delicious at the end of such a long day.  When we  found the place at the end of dirt road in adjacent with another campground, there was a line of people waiting in front of a little row of primitive little barrack like bathhouses.  People had to bring their own light, towels, soup, and even some plastic or wooden wash basins for their little children.  Finally it was our turn.  The concrete floor and concrete bathtub inside reminded me of the public baths in China during my college days.  How time had changed, I was shocked by the condition at first and didn't feel the facility was suitable for a good shower.  Yet, it only took me half of a minute to turn the shower on.  The spring water was a bit on the hot side but very soothing.

The night fell.  When the campfire was up, bugs disappeared altogether.  I decided to turn myself in early, for there was to be a lot more driving and hiking tomorrow.  It took me a couple of hours to fall in sleep as the air was getting more and more frigid.  Maybe the rushing River helped to relax the mind into a good state, I actually managed to fall in sleep and didn't wake up until around 5.  That was good, for most of the time I couldn't sleep that much at a campground.

The day had a dawned a bit.  I checked my watch and the temperature had dropped to 45 degrees Fahrenheit (about 7.5 Celsius).  I couldn't get back to sleep so I got up and paid my final visit to Devil's Postpile.  The light hadn't reached the valley yet; a deer was just minding her business.  My coming really startled her, for that I apologized.  It was so sweet to think I had slept a night only half a mile away from this great natural wonder.
 
8. Tiago and Teneya Lakes
 
The swimmers were greatly aroused by my description of the Rainbow Falls.  So, they got up a bit after 7.  We folded the tent and left the campground to see the rainbow.  At 8:45, the sun had reached the waterfalls; so, everyone was satisfied with the dancing rainbow.
 
We had a quick breakfast in the town of Mammoth Lakes.  We were to revisit Yosemite, the Valley and the high place around Tiago Pass, the places we had skipped yesterday.
 
After the wide and smooth Highway 395, we got onto Route 120.  It was a steady ride up along a colossal moraine that had healed into a valley in the shadow of Mount Dana which towered over 13,000 feet above sea level.  The car engine kept humming and revving up with noise.  Maybe it was early in the morning.  Maybe I didn't sleep well last night.  Large patches of snow glittered in the morning sun; streams of freshly melted snow water cascade down the shoulders of high ridges; I felt my eyes moist; tears of sadness and excitement welled up in silence.  Was I connected with this vast wound, great beauty, the previous life?  I wanted to stop the car and threw myself into such a fabulous wound of the high mountains.  But I also wanted to speed away to be in a safe and serene place to give the heart a break from such bleeding of epic proportion.  It was tense, inside me.  I didn't stop because the car was trapped in the middle of a long line of vehicles trying to climb up 4,000 feet in 15 minutes of time.
 
When the huge moraine was behind us, I planned to stop by the Ellery Lake, for she had the best reflection of snow peaks of this entire trip.  Again, time was short.  When Tiago Lake came into view, I couldn't go on any further.  Even 5 minutes of photographing, looking and doing nothing, was good for the soul.  What a beautiful place!  This part of the world had reached the status of celebrity.  People from all over the world came to see her.  Guess what?  She was so beautiful and every part of her was jewelry of the best kind, a rock, a pine, a wild flower, a mountain and definitely every waterfall and alpine lake.  The travel may be far and time consuming; but the reward was more than enough, for the rest of one's life.
 
By the time Teneya Lake came into view, the emotion inside had mellowed down to sweet happiness.  I was glad to stop and take a few more pictures while soaking my feet in the lake of pleasant temperature.  Ah, when I looked at the clock, it was midday, just like yesterday.  No wonder the alpine lake had already warmed up.  The sun was unusually enthusiastic.
 
9. Yosemite Forever

Yosemite itself deserved a full length article.  Any praises and articulation would never sound outlandish for her spectacular beauty.  The reason I only mention Yosemite here is that I had been there a few times and written about it in the past.  So, this section is just part of the trip.

Huge Rocky Peak near Half Dome

We wanted to go back to Yosemite Valley, simply because it would be rude just to pass by without paying due respect.  Plus, we paid our entrance fee using Route 120 to cross the mountains.  The pass was good for an entire week.
 
As expected, the views of the valley were breath-taking, unique in the entire world.  My favorite vista point with the Half Dome in its field of vision was under construction.  So, we had to drive along.  Another vista point had Ribbon Fall in plain view, I never paid attention to that before.  But it was crowded, overwhelmingly so.  So, we kept on going.  Soon, we were under the Bridalveil Falls but there was no parking.  We had to park a few hundred feet above on the roadside and walked back in.  There were many people.  The good part was the water flow was still relatively strong in June, the strongest I had ever seen as my past visits were often in August, dry month.  We moved on to salute the Half Dome.  Of course, El Capitan, a rock that was larger than many mountains was sitting across from Bridalveil Falls, silent like a philosophical old man.  Every time I passed it, I felt this incredible awe from the depth of my heart.  Nature is, indeed, wondrous.  By the time we got to the parking lot near Half Dome at the end of this narrow and long valley, we finally realized how hot the day was.  The air seemed to be flowing like thick mud in slow motion.  The sunlight screaming through tree leaves seemed to be orange and boiling.  It was hard to take a good picture of the Half Dome because there were so many tall trees on the valley floor.  We didn't have much time or energy to hike up the trail to take a closer look at this world famous rocky peak that missed half in the front.
 

Half Dome in a very hot day

The weird part was that while the Half Dome was dodging our glances, the Upper Yosemite Falls kept popping up into view.  So, we moved on to see this waterfall that dropped down from valley shoulders all the way to the floor, a whopping 739 meters (2,420 feet) of her fabulous self in full display.  Although it took a while to find a parking space and we had to hike about half mile to be at her sweet feet, it was really worth the trouble to go again and again.

 

Catching the full view of Yosemite Falls

The greatness of Yosemite goes way beyond those well-known spots and sights.  Any one of them is reason enough for a day trip.  But there are much more.  For example, the beautiful Merced River and many creeks that rush to the valley create a slew of marvelous waterfalls.  Let's just run up some names of the waterfalls and their height: Yosemite Falls (2,425 ft), Bridalveil Fall (620 feet), Vernal Fall (317 feet), Nevada Fall (594 feet), Ribbon Fall (1,612 feet), Horsetail Fall (1,000 feet), Illilouette Fall  (370 feet), Wapama Falls (1,400 feet), and Chilnualna Falls (about 2,200 feet).  Of course, there are natural lakes and huge, huge granite mountains of inspirational shapes and forms.  It was too bad that we didn't have much time that day.  Maybe someday we will find time just Yosemite alone.  Hope it wouldn't be this crowded with visitors.

June 30, 2009