三月來了,把大把的綠色灑向田野,拋上山坡,百花吐艷,百鳥鳴囀。春假到了,走入綠色,走向春天。想到羚羊谷加州罌粟花保護區 (Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve),加州罌粟花,獨一無二,應該有自己的領地,耳聽為虛,眼見為實,還真沒去膜拜過呢。所以三個禮拜之前就上網預訂了旅館。
飲食過量,需要運動。看了一下地圖,蘭開斯特 (Lancaster) 市區邊上有個馬鞍山州立公園 (Saddleback Butte State Park)。蘭開斯特與棕櫚谷北鄰,市區相連。我們剛才吃自助餐的鎮子,蘭開斯特地處洛杉磯郡 (Los Angeles County) 最北端,市內最大的企業為愛德華茲空軍基地 (Edwards Air Base),轟炸機,戰鬥機,直升飛機,甚至火箭隨處可見。還有,洛杉磯郡城市規劃署當年可能計劃在此建立大型城鎮,每寸土地都經過丈量,即便是空曠的沙漠區,也能看到西170街的路標 (West 170th Street),馬鞍山公園就在這裡。從市內出發,等於開車跑了170個街口,儘管沿途看到的是沙丘,約叔華樹 (Joshua trees) 和風滾草 (tumbleweeds).
這樣的空曠感還是上次遊覽約叔華樹國家遺址公園 (Joshua Tree National Monuments)時有所見識。只有稀稀拉拉的約叔華樹斗膽屹立於這沙漠里,沙漠灌木叢看上去奄奄一息,可也堅持了很多年了。沙漠地勢平坦,連石頭和山丘都很少見。可是公園設有洗手間,停車場,野餐區和露營地。小路鬆軟,不宜快行。驚奇吧,剛剛過去了的陣雨在沙漠里連一絲兒水的痕迹都沒有留下,這沙漠就像是廚房的水槽,並帶有自動烘乾裝備一樣。一座裸露的岩石名為小山 (Little Butte),算是停車場和馬鞍山的中途站。不停地往上走哇,看到幾株綠油油的植物,為之一振,爬山更有勁頭了。
在內華達山脈的南端與厄爾巴索山 (El Paso Mountains)相接,接頭處有紅岩谷州立公園 (Red Rock Canyon State Park),瀕臨莫哈韋沙漠。公園入口處有鮮紅的岩石柱,有羅馬古建築的氣派,相當壯觀。我們開車進入園內遊客服務中心,谷內寬敞,接天連地,只是那岩石的顏色不再鮮艷,結構也平常。
紅岩谷邊沿
上得一道山樑,天氣晴朗,微風習習,視野闊遠。露營地上帳篷粼粼,令人驚奇;這裡缺水,植被皆無,我是沒有到此露營的慾望。仔細觀看,地面上有成片的沙漠向日葵,金色閃爍,仙人掌,和艷紅的印第安彩筆花 (red Indian paintbrush);還是遮不住乾涸的土色,沒有生機。
一天下來,人有了回旅館休整的願望。下午4:15,再看一處地的時間應該還有。西南方向有雪山,惹人眺望了整整一天了。地圖上的一處魔鬼碎缽郡屬公園 (Devil's Punchbowl County Park)正好在那個方向。去了,這半小時路程跑得值。只見尖銳的岩石以45度的角度刺破天空,說不好是憤怒還是狂歡,那些石頭肯定在時間的長廊里接受了風雷閃電的一次又一次的洗禮。
雪山,石谷
多好的季節,不僅僅因為這裡有草青青,花盈盈,更有聖加加布里埃爾山 (San Gabriel Mountains) 的雪峰,給山下的岩石,山谷,樹木畫一般的背景。我是一路小跑奔下山谷,登上岩石,抓緊拍照。我只能在這裡留連半個小時,約好了6點鐘吃晚飯,好在我沒有遲到。
March came to splash green all over the fields and hills.Flowers are blooming and birds singing.Spring Break was the time to go out and greet the magnificent season of spring.Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve came to mind.California poppies are native thus deserve a special place.We had heard it a great deal but never made the pilgrimage to see.Hotel was reserved three weeks ahead of time.
Aquaduck Channeling Water for Southern California
We left town before 8:30 in the rain.However, when Highway 580 took us to Livermore and Altamont Pass, soft morning sunshine came out to grace green hills. It was so glorious that we checked into the Rest Area at the joint of Highway 580 and Interstate 5.We needed a stop to breathe in the spring air and take in the great greenness of the season.Not only that, we also checked out the first Vista Point we saw.The elevated mount enabled us to see expansive green fields and rolling hills.March and April were most beautiful time in California. Standing there, I could feel arms and wings (when did I get wings?) were open and flapping. It was so uplifting. The drive took over 6 hours.When the scenic view was so magnificent, there was not to check into every Rest Area, Vista Point, and Fruit Stand that was open.Relaxation and rush don』t see each other eye to eye.
2. Wind and Showers
Wednesday traffic was on the light side. Around 2:45, we arrived at Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve as the town was still further east. The forecast didn』t kid us. The wind was practically howling while showers apparently just pushed its way through. California poppies are a sensitive bunch. Their petals wrap around each other like a needle when it is overcast, windy, foggy or cold. Self-preservation has top priority for them precious flowers. Besides the sharp edges of the wind, it was also distressing to see the tattering and shattering of the poppies under dark clouds.We left quickly, with the idea to come back to see those millions of flowers under bright sunlight tomorrow.
We checked into the hotel in Palmdale around 3:15 in steady rain showers. Then our stomachs started to groan. In the phone book Hometown Buffet seemed to jump out of the pages.We had frequented this joint in other areas in the past. Hunger glossed over our past vow of not eating any buffet for the rest of our life.It is always hard to prevent over-eating in a buffet.When we finally pulled ourselves out, it was only 4:30.As showers kept retreating to the East as if keeping pace with our advance, the day became brighter in the evening hours.
3.Saddleback Butte
We needed to work off the extra food taken at the buffet. So, we looked at the map and found Saddleback Butte State Park at the edge of town of Lancaster, connecting with Palmdale in the north. We had our buffed lunch in Lancaster, a town at the north end of Los Angeles County, with Edwards Air Base as the biggest employer.One could see bombers, fight jets, helicopters and even missiles in many places. Also the Planning Department of Los Angeles County seemed to have mapped out every inch of the land here for urban development.In largely empty desert, country road took the name West 170th Street. That was where Saddleback Butte located.Starting from downtown, we drove 170 city blocks to the park, amidst sand dunes, Joshua trees and tumbleweeds.
Storm over Mojave Desert
Not since our visit to Joshua Tree National Monument had we seen so much barrenness! Only a few Joshua trees braved the desert here and there. Desert bushes looked sad, skinny and dying but yet persisting. The desert floor was largely flat as rocks were rare and hills scarce. The park had restrooms, parking lot, and even picnic areas and campground. Trails were sandy and soft so it was hard to go fast.Amazingly the showers that had just passed left not a hint of water on the ground. The desert worked like a kitchen sink with self-drying functions. A protruding rock was amply named the Little Butte that marked the halfway point between the parking lot and the large Saddleback Butte. I kept charging up to the Butte. A few healthy plants along the steep climb encouraged me to go faster and higher.
Alas! I reached the top of the Butte, with sweeping desert view to the east.There it occurred to me that the Joshua Tree National Monument was at the south end of the same desert, Mojave Desert.I was now standing at the Northwest corner of a very large desert. No wonder the landscape and the Joshua trees appeared so familiar.
When I came back down, it was already dark.The ranger was looking for me, not in good mood.The park curfew was set at sunset.When I paid with my State Parks Foundation day pass for the parking, he insisted on cash.The man was in a hurry to lock up and retire to his barracks as the desert night seemed unspeakably harsh and scary.Eventually he calmed down and accepted my State Parks Foundation Membership and led the way out of the park with his huge truck.
4. Red Rock Canyon
When the southernmost tip of the Sierra Nevada converges with the El Paso Mountains one could find Red Rock Canyon State Park at the edge of Mojave Desert. The park entrance has bright red rocks in the formation that looks like Roman architecture, simply splendid looking. We drove all the way to the Visitor's Center inside the canyon.Although it was very spacious and far-reaching inside, it looked dull in color and formation.
We walked up a ridge.It was a bright day, cool and slightly windy.The visibility was outstanding.It was fascinating to see quite a few tents on the campground; but, I would hesitate to camp here due to the absence of water and green vegetation.Patches of desert sunflowers flashed their enthusiastic gold color under the spring sunlight, along with cacti and Indian paintbrush in flaming red; but, the dominant scene was still bare earth.
Fantastic Geology of the Red Rock Canyon
We spent less than two hours there. On our way out, good photo opportunity presented itself as bright red rock formation hanged next to the highway.Millions of years ago, the earth was hot and boiling; all sorts of materials melted and took on different shapes and forms.Somehow the hot lava cooled down to the present formation, spectacular and dazzling the eyes. There were so few of us visiting such a wondrous place where many Hollywood movies were filmed.
Clouds over the Desert Floor
According to the map a Desert Tortoise Natural Area was not too far away from Red Rock Canyon.We didn't find any tortoise there but saw a huge desert lake struggling to survive the massive evaporation.There was an ocean of salt or borax around some water. Still the mountain laced desert view was wide and sweeping.
5. Poppy Reserve
Poppies don』t open up in chilly mornings; that was why we went away to the mountains and desert.As the day warmed up, we were coming back to Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve, the main attraction of the trip.
While the desert was hot and cloudless, Antelope Valley still had some wind as huge clouds lurked on the horizon. Most of the poppies already opened up by 1:30 pm.They spilled up to the hills and into the valleys. Besides poppies, huge stretches of desert gold (sunflowers) and purple owl's clover covered entire hills and valleys.Under spring sunlight, it felt like I was walking in a dream land.No Persian rug could weave such intricate patterns.No canvas was big enough to contain painting so color rich.
We bought some sandwiches in the morning to have lunch in the pleasant company of flowers. Once there, we took our time eating to let the day warm up so more flowers could sway open and flash their brilliant smiles.After lunch, we walked a large loop trail to become intimate with all the flowers and colored fields.Pictures were taken in the hundreds.
It was said that this year's poppies were one of the best crops in years.Poppy season at Antelope Valley was yet to hit the peak.But what we saw was already astonishing.
There were poppies in Northern California.Only this year the abundant rain fall seemed to make the grass grow too tall to make room for poppies; only a precious few poppies graced the lush hills.Antelope Valley is at the edge of the great Mojave Desert so grass doesn't do well there.This leaves plenty of room for hardy flowers like California poppies, desert sunflowers, and Owl's clover.So they bloom there heroically, and in great numbers.
6. Devil's Punchbowl
After the morning and afternoon activities, everyone wanted to retire to the hotel, naturally. It was only 4:15.There was time to squeeze in another park. Snow mountains in the southwest could be seen all day long. Yesterday's showers must have dropped some fresh powders there. The map marked out a Devil's Punchbowl County Park just in that direction. So, I went.It was half an hour drive but definitely worth the hassle. Pointed rocks stubbornly punctured the sky in a 45 degree angle. Were the rocks angry or celebrating? The only certainty was the rocks were fractured by wind, rain and many storms of centuries.
The timing was precious, not for all the green grass and wild flowers, but for the fact San Gabriel Mountains had snow on most of the peaks, serving a picturesque background for the rocks, the valley and all the trees. I hurried to run down the valley and up to the rocks to click away with the camera.Half an hour was all the time I had there.I was supposed to get back to the hotel around 6 o'clock for dinner, and I came back in time.
7. Homebound
The second night nobody wanted buffet dinner any more.Applebee's was a good choice, decent crowd, friendly service, fair price and, most importantly, reasonable amount of food properly prepared.
The rest of trip became easy. I went to bed around 9:30 but had a hard time falling into sleep. Then it occurred to me that I didn't have to travel west along Route 138 to find Highway 5 at Gorman.We had driven up and down Route 14 earlier during the day.This highway is straight and almost free of traffic, also connecting with Route 58 to Bakersfield.
After breakfast, we gassed up and shot a straight line up Route 14.Both 14 and 58 had two lanes, in contrast to the single land Route 138. Route 58 offered spectacular scenery as it cut between Tahachipi Mountains on the south and Sierra Nevada on the North. Before long, large wind mills for wind energy stood over the mountain side in terrific formations.The mountains were so huge that cars were reduced to ant size and highways ribbon-like.Before Piute Mountains, a valley came into view: suddenly the desert view of barrenness became distant memory as fresh green hills and fields signaled the graceful presence of spring.
After driving through part of town and traffic lights to connect Route 58 to Highway 5, the rest of the way was smooth sailing.We had lunch at Buckhorn Restaurant, an establishment mostly for long haul truckers, a little north of Los Banos and got home around 3;15.Another round of rain had hit town, just in time to wash the dust off the car.